ARRMA Durango Ltd Cookie Policy
At Team Durango, we're serious about racing! We're also serious about giving you the best user experience possible when using our website, and to do this we need to use 'cookies'. By continuing to use our website you are implying your consent for us to use cookies. You can read all about what we use cookies for here.

July 29, 2010

Shock build guide

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: — Team Durango @ 4:14 pm

Logos

In this guide we show you how to build the Team Durango shocks that feature on both the DEX410 and the DEX410R models. These shocks are available seperately as part numbers TD230010 – 1/10 Electric Shock Absorber Set: Front and TD230011 – 1/10 Electric Shock Absorber Set: Rear.

A well built set of shocks will ensure consistent handling and reliable performance. Here we show you how we recommend building your shocks to ensure consistency and repeatability when buiding your shocks.

Assemble the piston on the shock shaft. The first step is to place the small washer on to the shaft.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic1

Place the small washer onto the shock shaft

Then place the piston on the shaft making sure the piston is the correct way up. Now put the screw in to hold the piston in place. We recommend using thread lock on this screw to ensure it does not come loose in use. If using Team Durango red thread lock you only need a small amount, if you use too much the screw may be difficult to remove.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic2

Use a small amount of thread lock on the screw to hold the piston in place

The piston you need to choose will depend on the surface you are running on. Please check the set ups in our set ups section on our website here for good starting points for which pistons and oils you will need.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic3

The assembled shock shaft and piston

Now assemble the shock seals inside the shock bodies. We recommend lubricating these parts with shock oil as you assemble them. You need the thin black plastic spacer first, making sure that the flat surface will face the o-ring.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic4

Make sure the flat face of the first plastic spacer is facing up to where the o-ring will sit

Then place an o-ring, the thick black plastic spacer, another o-ring and finally the wide black plastic spacer. The flat face of the wide spacer needs to be facing the o-ring. When the parts are in place screw on the shock seal cap.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic5

The assembled shock body

Now you can put the shock shaft in place. You must take care when doing this so that you don’t damage the o-rings. Some set ups require internal limiters to be placed in the shocks. If you intend to run limiters inside the shocks then you need to put these onto the shock shaft now before you push the shock shaft into place. Having placed any limiters onto the shock shaft you should now place a few drops of shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft and then carefully push the shock shaft through the shock seals.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic6

A small amount of shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft will protect the o-rings

Now put in place the shock cap o-ring. It is easier to do this now than when the shock is full of oil.

Now you are ready to fill up the shocks with oil. Fill the shock bodies so that the oil is level with the top of the shock body. Then slowly move the piston up and down to allow air bubbles to escape from behind the piston. Stand the shocks up for a while to allow any more air bubbles to escape.

When all the air bubbles have escaped from the shock you may be required to top up the oil. The oil should be level with the top of the shock when the piston is at the bottom of the shock.

Now with the shock fully extended you need to screw on the shock cap.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic7

The assembled shock is now ready to be bled

With the shock cap in place you need to bleed the shock. This process removed excess oil so that the shock piston can move all the way inside the shock body without becoming hydraulically locked. During this process you can tune the rebound of the shock. Here we give a good starting point that will work well in most situations.

Place 4mm of spacers over the shock shaft and push the shock shaft into the shock body until there is 4mm between the bottom of the shock body and the top of the chamfer where the shock shaft starts to reduce in diameter.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic8


With 4mm of spacers you can see where to push the shock shaft to

Wipe off any excess oil that has come out of the bleed screw hole and screw in the bleed screw into the shock cap.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic9

Now fit the bleed screw

Now you need to fit the shock rod end to your shocks. To do this you need to hold the shock shaft without marking its surface. This can be done by holding the shock shaft with non-serrated pliers with a piece of paper in between the shock shaft and the pliers.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic10

Hold the shaft with non-serrated pliers so you don’t mark it

When you have hold of the shock shaft you need to screw the rod end into place. At this point you need to set the length of the shock. One method of measuring the length of the shock is to measure the gap between the shock seal cap and the top of the shock rod end, this is a very accurate way to measure your shocks to ensure that you have equal shock lengths on both sides of your car.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic11

You can measure the shock lenght like this

Please see the set up sheets on the Team Durango website for recommended shock lengths.

When you have done this you can screw on the shock nut. This has an o-ring inside of it to stop it from adjusting by itself. Push the o-ring into the groove and screw the shock nut onto the shock body. We recommend screwing this all the way to the top of the threads, then mark the nut inline with the hole in the shock cap. Then you will be able to count the number of turns of the shock nut accurately when making adjustments to your ride height.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic12

Mark the shock nut so you can make set up changes quickly and easily

With the shock nut in place you can put the spring on to the shock and then the spring retainer.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic13

Ready for installation on your car

Now all that needs to be done is to push the pivot balls into the shock cap and the shock rod end and your shocks are ready for installation on to your car.

July 26, 2010

DEX410 2010 Spec kit now shipping!

Filed under: News — Team Durango @ 11:13 am

Team Durango’s DEX410 2010 Spec is arguably the highest-specification 1/10 scale RC racing buggy available today.

DEX410_2010_Spec_press_release_main

Out-of-the-box, this car is the ultimate piece of kit for the serious, very serious and professional RC racer.  We have taken all of the best parts of our 2009 World Championship winning design and made some components even better than before, as well as ensuring that 2010 ROAR spec 25mm high Lipos sit in the car perfectly.

The list of changes and improvements over the 2009 version of the DEX410 include:

25mm high Lipo battery strap

Revised steering blocks with large 13mm outer ball bearings

2.0mm CVD driveshafts front, rear and down the centre

Steel front brace posts

Larger diameter, steel crunch spacers

Deeper hex wheels

Revised diff shims

Kit now includes 100000CST and 50000CST differential oils for our awesome geared diffs

Now available from your local Team Durango distributor!

July 19, 2010

Team Durango success at Austrian Nationals Round 3

Filed under: News — Team Durango @ 1:33 pm

Following on from his success at round 2 of the Austrian national championship, Hupo Honigl sent us this this report of another dominant weekend of racing.

‘The third round of the Austrian nationals were held at the very nice track of the 1st WBC Hoheneich in the north of Austria.

Saturday was practise day and saw about 90 drivers testing their cars in the two classes. The weather was really awesome, about 38° and sunny.

On Sunday the weather turned around 100%, it was only 17° and raining!

We managed to run all qualifying rounds and used this as the final result, because with the bad weather the track got worse and worse.

I won 2wd with the dex210 proto in front of Roland Macho and Roland Hauleitner.

In 4wd we had 6 dex410 in the top 10, with a 1-2-3 sweep in the finals. I won in front of Roland Macho (who recently switched from the B44 back to the 410) and Martin Kreil!

The other DEX410 cars in the final finished in 6th – Gerd Pazout, 7th – Marcus Prihoda and 8th – Andreas Janda.’

Congratulations again to Hupo on another impressive display.

Hupo’s set-up can be found here:

July 15, 2010

Translators wanted

Filed under: News — Team Durango @ 1:12 pm

Would you like to earn money translating from English into your language??

If yes please email sales@team-durango.com with some information about yourself, your education and your RC racing history.

To help Team Durango racers who don’t speak English we are looking for translators in all major languages – French, German, Spanish, Italian, perhaps Russian & Portugese, even American (joke!)

You can work part time from home, so long as you have an Internet connection and you will be paid based on how much you translate. Easy!

So if this is for you, please get in touch.

July 13, 2010

DEX410 and 410R hit the track @ Preston Park

Filed under: News — Team Durango UK @ 8:39 am

Logos

Craig Collinson sent us in this report from the NE Regional Series @ Preston Park.

The North East Regional Series headed to the Preston Park venue in the North East of Eangland. The venue is a fine example of the ‘Old Skool’ grass track on an undulating surface with the addition of man-made features such as jumps and a table top. The track was quite challenging with lots of chicanes and fast, sweeping corners, which really tested the skills of the driver and ability of the cars.

Round 1

The first round of qualifying didn’t quite go according to plan. I was out in the lead, on target to set TQ, when I broke the car around three minutes into the race. This left James Chappell to take TQ in round one. I knew the car was well and truly on the pace so losing the first round was not too much of a worry.

Round 2, 3 and 4

The next three rounds went much better, infact they couldn’t have gone any better as I TQ’d all three, putting in the fastest overall time of the day and the fastest laps of the day. The car was awesome right from the off, only needing small changes from practice to the 1st round , after which I didn’t touch the set-up all day.  After running a prototype ‘R’ from the start of the outdoor season, Wayne Collinson (my older ‘slower’ brother) – (Not as Oswestry 2wd -Ed). was racing his own Durango 410R  this weekend for the first time and he also made the A-main.

Finals

Leg 1

The finals were run over three legs with your best two of three to count.

On the first lap of the first leg I went slightly wide on the corner just before the tabletop allowing James Chappell to take the lead. This was a really good chance to see how much quicker the car could go, as I had to push to catch James and take back the lead. The car handled the extra pace with ease and was just as comfortable being pushed to the limit. It only took a couple of laps for me to catch and pass James and from that point I didn’t look back and went on to take Leg 1. In the meantime Wayne had made his way up from 10th on the grid to 3rd and was cruising round with lap times that were just shy of my own. Unfortunately for him his run came to and end as he clipped the track marking hard.

Leg 2

The second leg was quite similar but instead of making an error on the first lap I made an error half way through the race, which dropped me from 1st to 3rd. Again I had to push and regained my lead, which I did. Once out in front I never looked back and went on to take the second leg and the overall win. Wayne had had another eventful run making his way up from 10th to 3rd, but in his rush to build the car at 1:30am he had forgot to use threadlock on the screw holding the piston on the shock shaft. This had taken all day to work loose, but came loose at the worst possible time.

Leg 3

In the third leg I wanted to try and put in a clean run as I’d ready won the overall meeting. During the third leg again I led quite comfortably until I approached a back-marker. I tried to take the inside line but clipped the track marking leaving me needing to be marshalled, this again dropped me a few places. I only had around two minutes to get my lead back and it took me until the last lap with two corners to go to do it. James went slightly wide on the downside of the tabletop, which left me just enough room to put a move on him, which I managed to pull off, and took the third leg. Wayne, with a fully prepped car (double and triple checked) for round three made his usual trip from the back of the grid upto 3rd by putting in laps that were consistently only just off my ultimate pace and with the threadlock in place, he brought the car home for a well deserved 3rd in the last leg.

Another great win for the Team Durango 410 and and excellent result for the DEX410R.

Craig’s Set-up can be found here:

photo 1

25mm Lipo in DEX410

Filed under: Tricks and Tips — Tags: — Team Durango @ 8:03 am

Logos

The DEX410 was originally designed around lipo packs that were 23.5mm tall. This was the maximum height for a legal lipo battery at the time.

Since then there has been a change in the regulations, increasing this maximum height dimension to allow lipos of up to 25mm to be used for racing.

When developing the DEX410R model this change in battery regulations was taken into account and existing parts were revised to allow the fitment of 25mm high lipo packs.

Here we show you what parts are required to fit 25mm high lipos in the original DEX410.

Parts Required:-

TD310155 MID DRIVE GEAR PLATE (ALUMINIUM) (25MM)

TD310156 MOTOR MOUNT PLATE (25mm)

TD310039 GEAR BOX SET: FRONT & REAR

TD320005 BATTERY HOLDER SET (LIPO)

The centreline transmission on the DEX410 runs quite close to the battery pack. To use a taller battery the centreline transmission needs to be raised slightly.

Raising the slipper clutch assembly:-

To do this there is a new motor mount and mid drive gear plate that raises the slipper assembly, these are part numbers TD310155 and TD310156.

2010_07_12_Motor Plate new vs

New motor plate (TD310156) on the left mounts the slipper assembly in a higher position then the original motor plate (TD310009) on the right

2010_07_12_Mid Plate new vs

New mid gear plate (TD310155) on the left mounts the slipper assembly in a higher position then the original mid gear plate (TD310008) on the right

Increasing the angle of the rear gearbox:-

Raising the slipper assembly will give clearance for the battery pack in the middle of the car. It is also necessary to raise the angle of the gearbox to give clearance for the battery back along the length of the driveshaft. To do this we have updated the gearbox holder on TD310039 gear box set. This now holds the rear gear box at a slightly higher angle, giving the driveshaft more clearance over the battery pack.

2010_07_12_rear gearbox mount

New gearbox holder on the left holds the rear gearbox at a greater angle than the old gearbox holder

With these parts fitted there is now clearance under the centre driveshaft for 25mm lipo battery packs.

Fitting the lipo battery holder:-

There are two heights at which the lipo battery holder can be mounted. The lower one is for 23.5mm high lipo battery packs and the higher for 25mm high lipo battery packs.

At the hinge end the gearbox holder now has two holes. Use the upper hole for 25mm lipo battery packs.

2010_07_12_rear gearbox mount new

New gearbox holder has two positions for mounting the battery strap

We have modified the lipo battery holder, part TD320005, so that the parts tree now includes spacers to raise the front mount for the strap in the middle of the car. When using 25mm lipo batteries these spacers go in-between the front mount for the battery strap and the chassis, slightly longer screws will be required due to the thickness of the spacers.

320005

The two spacers included in TD320005 are for spacing up the front battery mount when using 25mm lipo batteries

With the spacers under the front battery mount and the battery strap fitted in the upper of the two positions for the hinge end you know have a secure fitting for your 25mm high lipo battery.


July 9, 2010

Team Durango now available in USA and Canada

Filed under: News — Team Durango UK @ 6:48 pm

WebHRP Distribution

Following our recent news that “HRP” (www.hrpdealer.com) are the primary distributor for Team Durango in USA and Canada, we are pleased to announce that their stock has arrived and is ready for sale.

Team Durango is delighted to be able to work with a company that has proven its service over twenty years. HRP has a warehouse in the West (UT), as well as a new warehouse on the East coast (FL), which means that they can give super-fast service to hobby stores across North America. A full list of the hobby shops stocking Team Durango can be found below:

Alaska

YTZ RC

(907) 374-9050

FAIRBANKS, AK 99701

Arizona

CLINE HOBBIES

(480) 726-0392

CHANDLER, AZ 85224

ONE HOBBIES

(360) 281-5854

SURPRISE, AZ 85374

California

A MAIN HOBBIES

(530) 894-5056 RETAIL LOCATION

CHICO, CA 95928

AMAINHOBBIES.COM

(800) 705-2215

NOR-CAL HOBBIES

(510) 324-5700

UNION CITY, CA 94587

PEGASUS HOBBIES

(909) 949-6805

MONTCLAIR, CA 91763

RACERS HAVEN HOBBIES

(661) 835-0441

BAKERSFIELD, CA 93309

RPP HOBBY

(707) 462-4152

UKIAH, CA 95482

Colorado

MHOR R/C RACEWAY

(303) 343-7966

AURORA, CO 80012

Connecticut

RC MADNESS

(860) 741-6501

ENFIELD, CT 06083

Florida

RC HOBBIES

(954) 721-5720

FORT LAUDERDALE, FL 33321

SUPERIOR HOBBIES

(407) 834-9299

CASSELBERRY, FL 32707

Idaho

IN CONTROL HOBBIES

(208) 457-8166

POST FALLS, ID 83854

Illinois

LEISURE HOURS HOBBIES

(815)439-1477

JOLIET, IL 60435

Kansas

HOBBYTOWN USA- WICHITA

(316) 683-7222

WICHITA, KS 67207

Maine

EVOLUTION HOBBIES

(207) 627-4407

CASCO, ME 04015

Massachusetts

R/C EXCITEMENT INC.

(978) 342-3374

FITCHBURG, MA 01420

Michigan

DIRT BURNER RACING

(734) 591-1000

LIVONIA, MI 48150

LARRY’S PERFORMANCE R/C’S

(586) 997-4840

STERLING HTS, MI 48314

Mississippi

NITRO TOY’S & HOBBIES

(601) 664-9002

FLOWOOD, MS 39232

Missouri

BLAZE RC

(573) 201-1391

LAKE OF ST. LOUIS, MO 63367

CHECKERED FLAG HOBBY COUNTRY

(314) 892-5353

ST. LOUIS, MO 63129

REAL R/C RACEWAY

(816) 540-5584

PLEASANT HILL, MO 64080

Montana

STORMER HOBBIES

(800) ALL-RACE

GLASGOW, MT 59230

New Mexico

FASTLANE HOBBIES, INC.

(505) 325-5967

FARMINGTON, NM 87402

New York

GALLI MODS HOBBY SHOP

(914) 621-0044

BALDWIN PLACE, NY 10505

North Carolina

JOHNNY’S AUTO SALES

(336) 548-2313

MADISON, NC 27025

North Dakota

CHANEY’S CAR & TRUCK REPAIR

(701) 577-1032

WILLISTON, ND 58801

Ohio

AUSTINTOWN HOBBY

(330) 793-9233

YOUNGSTOWN, OH 44515

Oregon

RC PLUS

(503) 364-9188

SALEM, OR 97302

Texas

TEAM VALADEZ HOBBIES

(915) 775-1482

EL PASO, TX 79925

Utah

ADDICTION R/C

(801) 334-5555

OGDEN, UT 84404

CANYON HOBBIES

(801) 572-2702

DRAPER, UT 84020

INTERMOUNTAIN R/C RACEWAY

(801) 250-8303

MAGNA, UT 84044

Virginia

DEBBIE’S RC WORLD

(757) 361-6681

CHESAPEAKE, VA 23320

Washington

TACOMA RC RACEWAY

(253) 565-1935

TACOMA, WA 98409

TQ HOBBIES

(509) 728-1752

SELAH, WA 98942

Wisconsin

HOBBYTOWN – OSHKOSH

(920) 426-1840

OSHKOSH, WI 54902

S.N. TRACKSIDE HOBBIES

(262) 783-4699

BROOKFIELD, WI 53005

CANADA

PM HOBBYCRAFT

(403) 291-2733

CALGARY, ALBERTA T2E 6T4

CRAZYRC

(450) 438-6760

MIRABEL QC J7J 2G6

ELIMINATOR RC

(204) 947-2865

WINNIPEG, MANITOBA  R3B 0B4

HRP Distributing, Inc.

2371 South 3600 West
West Valley City, Utah 84119

Toll Free Phone: 1-800-622-7223
Toll Free Fax: 1-866-766-7223
Email: sales@hrpdist.com

Team Durango € and £ price changes from Monday 12th July, 2010

Filed under: News — Team Durango UK @ 9:20 am

Web

Since the launch of the DEX410 in September 2009, the prices for Team Durango products have not changed.

The Euro (€) and Sterling (£) exchange rates against the US Dollar ($) have altered significantly during that time. Such is the amount of change it is now necessary for Team Durango Ltd to increase its Euro and Sterling prices in-line with current exchange rates.

Existing prices on the DEX410R, spares and clothing will be maintained for three more days.  The price changes will not take effect until Monday 12th July.

Team Durango Ltd

July 6, 2010

New design front hubs – TD340008

Filed under: News — Team Durango @ 3:30 pm

Logos

Now standard on the DEX410R and available as an update to the DEX410 are new design front hub carriers. These now feature larger diameter outer bearings, offering both increased strength and durability in this area.

The hubs keep the same part number as the previous hub set – TD340008. As before each set includes two front and two rear hubs.

td340008new

The new design hubs are available from Team Durango now. You will also need the matching larger diameter bearings. This is also available now- part number TD601017 – BALL BEARING : 2PCS (5x13x4mm)

July 5, 2010

Durango TQ and win in Greece

Filed under: News — Team Durango @ 3:33 pm

Last weekend saw the warm-up race for the upcoming National race in Greece.

Our Team Durango distributor sent us this report on the event:-

‘Yesterday the warm-up race was held for the upcoming National race at the R1 EP track.

Amaxas George, driving the DEX410, looked very good from first qualify and he won two rounds of qualifying to give him the TQ position.

I ran my car for the first time on this track; I decided not to change much on the car so I could get a feeling of the track for the national race. I managed to finish qualifying in fifth. The car was good but traffic and overtaking slower cars didn’t let me run faster rounds.

George, starting from pole on the small and tight track, won the first leg and finish second on the second and third legs of the final, securing his overall win. As for myself again I struggled with traffic, especially on first laps and couldn’t finish higher then fifth in any leg of the finals, overall I tied for fourth position.

Overall the team were happy, George won the race and we have found good balance on the car. Saturday prior the national race team will also work together to have even better setup for each driver’s liking.’

Older Posts »
Your local Team Durango distributor
T: 217-398-3630
F: 217-398-1104
E: gpinfo@gpmd.com
W: www.gpmd.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
1608 Interstate Drive
Champaign,
IL 61822, USA
USA