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April 18, 2011

Nathan Waters 3rd at Stotfold BRCA National

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 10:13 am

The opening round of the 2011 BRCA 10th off road national series was held at Stotfold this past weekend and Team Durango driver Nathan Waters was on top form qualifying 4th overall and finishing 3rd on the immensely tricky Stotfold track.

stotfoldnational2011-waters2 stotfoldnational2011-waters3

Nathan was using the new ‘Big Bore’ dampers on his DEX410 – these recently released dampers help give a more consistent damping over the course of a race and got a real workout on the undulating Stotfold surface.


Nathans setup will be online  soon.

#TD499001 – DESC410R Underbody available now

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 9:08 am

The DESC410R #TD499001 underbody is now available and is a great option for running on less than perfect tracks where you’re likely to get debris entering the chassis. It’s a great way of protecting your valuable electrics – or just keeping things clean.

desc410r-underbody3 desc410r-underbody2

The cover sits snugly over the chassis and can be secured with hook and loop tape for maximum protection.  Three vent ‘scoops’ are provided and can be opened up if required with minimal negative effect on the protection offered.

desc410r-underbody1 desc410r-underbody4

#TD499001 Underbody comes supplied clear and unpainted.

April 14, 2011

Boots & Brunsden go 1-2 at Slough

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 7:30 pm

1-2-sloughsummerseriesrd1 Kevin Brunsden 2nd – Callum Niblett (B main) – Elliott Boots 1st

Elliott Boots took his DNX408 to a victory at Round 1 of the Slough summer series.   Kevin Brunsden put his DNX408 in second to complete a 1-2 for Team Durango.

Elliott made few changes from his general setup from the Astroturf track he’d raced the weekbefore for the Slough dirt track.  The track was very rough, dry and dusty – a real test for any car to drive fast.  The Team Durango cars were a step above the rest however and after taking TQ, Elliott lapped the entire field except for his team mate Kevin during the 20 minute A-Final.

Special mention has to go to young Callum Niblett (pictured) who had a great days racing with his DNX408 but sadly had to withdraw from the B main with vision problems.

To cap off a great days racing the guys saw a lot of interest from drivers interested in the DNX408 – and did their best to give advice and guidance as Team Durango drivers can always be expected to do.   The results speak for themselves and after some testing and track time, the team are growing ever more confident of the advantage they have on-track.

Elliotts setup will be online soon.  Link will be added asap.

Carson Doubles at the ARC Raceways Spring Shootout

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 7:07 pm

This past weekend saw the start of the ARC Raceways Spring Shootout Series in Temecula, California USA.   Team Durango driver Carson Wernimont took TQ in both Pro 4WD Short Course and Pro 1/8th Nitro Buggy.

After such a good days qualifying it would have been a shame to go home without the results to back it up – and Carson didn’t disapoint, taking the wins in both classes to start the series off in the best possible way.


April 12, 2011

Big Bores are IN!

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 3:56 pm

The long-awaited ‘Big Bore’ dampers for the 410 series of electric off roaders are shipping now – please contact your local distributor for details and availability.


The above chart shows which Big Bore dampers you’ll need for your Buggy / Truck.


The above chart shows which spring kit is used where.  The darkened boxes designate these uses are possible but probably not optimal.  There are two 45mm spring sets both with 8 spring strengths that do not cross over – the ‘HARD’ 45mm spring set (TD230029) is designed for the heavier DESC410R Short Course truck, where as the normal 45mm spring set (TD230027) is designed primarilly for the DEX410 / DEX410R buggies.

Ryan Lutz finishes 3rd at Silver State

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 2:14 pm

Ryan Lutz put in a great performance at this weekends Silver State Nitro Challenge race in Boulder City.  Ryan put in a solid qualifier after a couple of mistakes in round one of qualifying to take 6th and felt very happy with the car.  The second run was wrecked by the temperatures as Ryans goggles misted up halfway through the race and he made a series of errors to finish outside the top 20.  The third qualifier was another great run which he needed to get straight into the A-Main but an error three corners from the end saw him drop to 15th in round and 12th overall to sit at the head of the B-Main.  Ryan easily stormed the B-Main and took the #1 Bump-up spot to sit 12th on the grid for the A-Main.

sun-lutzcar Thanks to REDRC for the photo of Ryan’s car.

Ryan worked his way up during the first few laps to 4th but a cut during his first refueling cost him time – Ryan battled on and claimed an impressive 3rd on a hugely blow-out track, and claimed the fastest lap of the race in the process.


DNX408 Shock Build Guide

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , , , — Stuart @ 11:19 am

Shock absorbers are what keep your DNX408 glued to the track so getting them built ‘right’ is important to get the best handling car.  We polled some of our experienced team drivers for information on how they build their shocks so we could write a little guide to cover some of the areas where doing things the correct way can make a difference.

ttt-dnx408-trimpiston Trim any excess from the piston – carefully ttt-dnx408-threadlock Use mininal red threadlock

The first step to get your shock absorbers built correctly is to attach the piston to the shaft.  Make sure there is no excess flashing on the piston to ensure smooth movement. If there is any excess flashing, carefully trim it off.  The piston attaches to the shaft with a screw that will need to be threadlocked.  Here you can either use the red Team Durango threadlock provided in your DNX408 kit VERY sparingly, or use some less aggressive blue threadlock from a third party.  If you use too much red threadlock you might find it very hard to remove the small screw when you want to change pistons in the future. If this happens, you might have to soak the parts in acetone to break-down the threadlock.


Insert the shaft and piston into the shock body as we will use this to help build the seals and guides into the bottom of the shock body.  Pull the shock shaft all the way out of the bottom to expose the threads, and give these a plentiful dousing of shock oil.  The oil will allow you to push the o-rings over the threads without damaging them and ensure the shock seal assembly is fully pre-lubed and ready for use.   If needed, you can put another drop of oil on before the second o-ring.

ttt-dnx408-oilshaft Lube your shaft well ttt-dnx408-orings Place the o-rings and spacers on, using more oil as you go

The lower shaft guide should sit flush with the face of the red anodised lower cap.  The part looks similar on both sides and could easily confuse you into thinking you can assemble them either way around.  One side has a slightly smaller diameter and will sit down properly in the lower cap. You can test this easily by pushing it from the outside of the cap and testing which side ‘clicks’ into place. You can then push the shaft through the guide whist keeping hold of the red cap.

ttt-dnx408-rodguide The lower shaft guide is sided – small side down. ttt-dnx408-guideinstall2 Test the fit on the outside of the bottom cap to get the correct orientation, then push the shaft through.

With all the seals and guides in place, liberally oil the parts and carefully push them into the shock body.  The red bottom cap is the final part to be assembled.  You can put a dab of threadlock on the lower threads where the cap rests to ensure it won’t work loose.

ttt-dnx408-oilshaft2 Cover the assembled o-rings and guides – as well as shaft with more oil ttt-dnx408-insertorings After covering in oil – push the guides and o-rings in carefully

Slide the rubber shock boot over the shock shaft and attach the lower shock rod end to the shaft.  You can use the piston screw to slowly screw the shaft into the rod end and avoid scratching the shaft.  Of course to un-fasten this you’ll need to use something to clamp the shaft itself.

ttt-dnx408-screwoncap With the bottom cap o-ring in place around the threads, screw on the bottom cap. ttt-dnx408-screwrodend2 You can use the piston screw to attach the rod end.

Filling the shocks properly with oil is an important step and one you shouldn’t overlook the importance of this stage.  With the shaft extended all the way out, fill the shock body with oil until it’s a few milimeteres from the top.  Slowly push the shock shaft in and out a few times to work-out any air bubbles and then put the shock absorber assembly aside for the remaining air to bubble out.  A good tip here is to use a couple of wheels stacked up and simply pop the shock through and allow it to sit. After sitting for a few minutes, top-up the oil in the damper until it’s at the top.

ttt-dnx408-airout2 ttt-dnx408-airout

There are a couple of different ways of attaching the shock cap and diaphragm. Our team drivers use both of these methods.  The first, and simplest, way is to push the diaphragm into the top cap – taking care to ensure it is fully seated and the shape is intact. Push in the shock shaft to set rebound and place the cap over the now filled damper body and slowly start to screw it down.  Once you’ve got a few threads down, angle the shock slightly and hold the cap steady with the bleed-hole facing upwards.  Rotate the shock whilst keeping the cap steady as this will let the excess air out.  Tighten the top cap with finger pressure.

ttt-dnx408-diaphram ttt-dnx408-diaphram2
ttt-dnx408-shockcap1-2 ttt-dnx408-shockcap1-1

Another method that some of our drivers use is to push the shock shaft in to set the rebound and then place the diaphragm into the top of the shock body.  Using your index finger, push the diaphragm in and gently shuffle the diaphragm until it’s properly seated.  Pull down the shock shaft to put some negative pressure on the diaphragm and keep it in place while you attach the top cap and tighten it with finger pressure.

ttt-dnx408-diaphram1st-1 This can get messy ttt-dnx408-diaphram1st-2 Gently press down the diaphragm and wiggle it round to seat it fully
ttt-dnx408-diaphram1st-3 After pulling down the shaft, carefully attach the top cap making sure not to displace the diaphragm ttt-dnx408-diaphram1st-4

TTT-DNX408-reboundlogo2Setting the rebound the same on each side is important but actual settings are down to personal preference and track conditions. Rebound can be thought of like an air-spring which works in combination with the coil spring.  More rebound will stiffen the suspension as the damper is compressed.  Less rebound can allow the suspension to move freely and soak up the bumps. More rebound will handle big landings better and give more ‘pop’ off the lip of a jump as the suspension compresses and releases when the car takes off.

Finish off the shocks by cleaning all the excess oil off that might have spilt / been ejected during the build.  You can use motor spray / brake cleaner to clean up the dampers but be sure not to get any on the seals as this can cause them to swell up.

April 7, 2011

DNX408 Brake Piston Alignment

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: — Stuart @ 11:35 am
tip-408-pistonsetup1 The rear half of the centre differential mount on the DNX408 buggy is constructed from two sections of  machined alloy; these are screwed together by the user to complete the assembly.


The steel brake piston needs to slide through the hole in in the mount smoothly – the problem is that without perfect alignment between the two halves, when screwed together, the action can be stiff and affect the braking performance of the buggy.

150wideTTT-solidgreyTo acheive perfect alignment take the two halves, and with a small amount of threadlock on each screw very loosely join the two parts together.  Slide the piston into inside face next to the screw heads and hold it flat against the edge.  Making sure not to tip the assembly forward at all, slowly tighten each screw.

tip-408-pistonsetup3x Above Left: Holding the piston in place whilst joining the two halves.  Above Right: The completed assembly – both parts aligned.

When fully tightened you should be able to drop the piston into one side and have it fall out under its own weight freely from the other side – this will give the  best braking performance.

DNX408 Drive Shaft Boot Install

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , — Stuart @ 11:09 am
The DNX408 comes with rubber boots to guard against dirt and water ingress and keep the CVD joint running nicely for a long time.  Getting the boots on without damaging them can be tricky though if you don’t use the proper technique.

To fit the boot properly you need to use care and don’t rush. Use a liberal covering of silicone (diff or shock) oil on the dog-bone end of the drive shaft and place the boot over the end – work the cover over slowly poking one side of the pin through the hole in the top of the boot.

Oiled and ready Well lubed dogbone is essential Ease the driveshaft through - pin first. Work one side out first

Slowly pull the boot to stretch it around the dog-bone  and other side of the pin.150wideTTT-solidgrey

Take it slow..... SLOW! Work the boot over the other side of the pin

JOB DONE!  Done!

Voila! No more torn boots.

April 6, 2011

DNX408 Gearbox Input ‘Snapring’ install procedure

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , — Stuart @ 5:57 pm
408snapring-walkthru1 150wideTTT
Some drivers have had problems installing the ‘snapring’ that holds the input-shaft assemblies / bearings in place on the DNX408.  The snapring can easily ping into oblivion or the alloy gear bearing tube can be scratched if you don’t take care.

Place the snapring around the input shaft with the open ends inside the groove on the neck next to the bearing. Using some needle-nose pliars or similar, place one of the jaws on the centre outside edge of the snapring – and place the other jaw on the shoulder of the input shaft on the opposite side.  If you aren’t aligned perfectly you risk the snapring twisting off and springing across the room.

Installing the snapring: 408snapring-walkthru2x

Apply pressure slowly so you can ensure the snapring is moving into the groove and not sliding off at an angle.   With the snapring pushed all the way onto the input shaft make sure that it’s seated properly inside the groove by pushing the centre section toward the bearing.

The completed assembly: 408snapring-walkthru4

Removing the Snapring:
To remove the snapring for later disassembly or cleaning purposes you need to align the centre of the snap ring with the small recess on the input shaft.  This will allow you to use a small flat-bladed screw driver to lever the snapring out of position.  It could be wise to perform this action with a clear plastic bag around the assembly to prevent the snapring being lost.


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Your local Team Durango distributor
T: 217-398-3630
F: 217-398-1104
Great Planes Model Distributors
1608 Interstate Drive
IL 61822, USA