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November 30, 2011

DEX410 – TQ and Win at Kidderminster MAM Series, Round 3

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 5:15 pm
robbo

November 20th saw the 3rd Round of the Midlands Astro Masters Series come back to Kidderminster. Many good drivers came from all over to attend.

Round 1.
With the ambition of trying out some different setups for the day, the start was quite slow. I was only quick enough to be able to grab 4th in the round – but knew I had a lot more to give.

robbo410 Round 2.
Same again with altering setup I was struggling again in Round 2. Trying to keep up with the pace of the front runners still proved difficult, but managed 3rd in the round to guarantee the A final and giving me something to build on in the rounds to come.

Round 3.
For Round 3 we changed the car quite dramatically. This time the setup was spot-on and it completely changed the car for the better. It was looking like we had finally found a setup that separated me from the rest and I managed to TQ the round.

Round 4.
Being so pleased with the car now with setup we conjured up, we decided to leave the car as it was and get some track time with it with the hopes of punishing the rest of the field again, as I did in Round 3. With some tight qualifying this time, a nip-and-tuck battle with the 2nd place runner, both of us feeling the pressure of TQ in the round and the meeting. But in the end I managed to get the edge and again take TQ, placing the Team Durango DEX410 in pole position for the A Final.

A Final Results.
I had quite a comfortable start from pole to hold the lead and stretch out some distance from the pack in the early stages. The 2nd place runner was on a similar pace and we both had to hold our nerves not to make any errors. With the gap I created earlier in the final, my pace was quick enough to relaxe a little and keep the gap till the end of the final, converting my TQ into a Win and another win for Team Durango, with Team mate Chris Bowater also finishing well in 4th place overall.

robboandboggy LEFT: Chris Bowater finished 4th.  RIGHT: Paul Robinson took TQ and the Win!

DEX210 TQ’s TRESREY 2WD Challenge: race report

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 3:58 pm
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Round 7 of the Tresrey Off-Road Race 2WD Challenge was held last Sunday at the TRS circuit in Matsusaka-city, Japan. 57 racers joined this event.

round7_start

In the first qualifying round, it was TRF driver Satoshi Maezumi who managed to take top time for this round. In round 2 and 3, it was TRESREY factory driver Kenji Tsuruta who managed to take the top time for both rounds, giving him the overall TQ with his Team Durango DEX210.  Maezumi(TRF201) took 2nd with Noriyuki Kawashima(B4) taking 3rd.

kenji-in-action Top Qualifier – Kenji Tsuruta, with his Team Durango DEX210 intherace2

There were 18 Durango DEX210s in the race and 4 of them would made the A final. Kawashima started from 2nd and he passed two cars ahead and won the race, with Hideki Nakajima(B4) 2nd and Maezumi(TRF201) 3rd.   Takashi Nobuhara finished 5th, with Tsuruta 6th, Akihiro Yasuda 8th and Satoshi Kawano 10th with their DEX210s.

luckydraw2 After the award ceremony, Tresrey held a big lucky prize draw,  which included a Team Durango DEX210 kit, Speed Passion ESCs and motors.

Tresrey would like to thank: Team Durango, Speed Passion, Tamiya, Team AZARASHI, JR-PROPO, and TRS circuit.

yellowstar-200

November 29, 2011

Turnbuckle Build Guide

title

Having links pop-off during a heavy crash on the race track is frustrating but understandable – having them pop-off during adjustments however is possibly even more frustrating but it’s something you can prevent.  This guide is to help users build their turnbuckles to minimize the chances of them popping off during adjustments.

unpopped-adjustments Adjust settings without taking the link off

The steering and camber link ball cups on all 10th scale Team Durango vehicles have holes to allow adjustments without popping-off the link and it’s good practice to always use this method when making adjustments.

Every time you pop-off a link it gets a little looser and easier to pop-off next time – which could be during a crash or when making adjustments.  A 2.5mm hex driver can be simply poked through the ball cup to unwind the ball stud and reposition it in the desired location or to add/remove shims.

DEX210 front camber link: front210turnbucklescompared

locking-the-link The reason the links can pop-off during adjustment is due to the turnbuckle having too much friction inside the ball cup.

Left: Locking the link with hex tools will stop it popping off when adjusting.

A quick fix to stop the links popping off during adjustment is to put 2.5mm allen keys / hex drivers in each end of the link – locking the link and stopping it turning and popping off.  This works well for really tight links but isn’t a real long-term solution.

assemblelink To make adjustments easier first grease the threads of the turnbuckle – and then wind it fully in and out of the ball cup a couple of times to free things up. You want the grease the inside of the ball cup where the threads are – so make sure the grease gets inside and isn’t simply wiped-off when assembling the link.

Right: Thread the turnbuckle in and out a couple of times to help future adjustments.

An easy way to build the links is using a 3mm driver shaft placed through the ball cup to hold it in place whilst you turn the turnbuckle (or turn the ball cup whilst holding the turnbuckle). Don’t use anything with a smaller diameter as it might deform the ball cup.  The combination of the greased threads and running the turnbuckle in and out of the ball cup should make future adjustments a lot easier.

geasethreads A small dab of grease on the turnbuckle pre-ream Threaded all the way in

Using the DEX210 as an example – both the front camber and steering links are built with 1 or 2mm of un-threaded turnbuckle inside the ball cup, depending on setup – this makes adjustments hard even with the aforementioned preparation.  On the shortest possible front camber link setting, there’s a substantial length of un-threaded turnbuckle going into the ball cup, making adjustment less easy.

open-rodend The standard HD ball cup has no real accommodation for the un-threaded part of the turnbuckle reaming You can use a reamer to open up the ball cup a little

When building the links you can open them up slightly with a reamer to accommodate the slightly wider un-threaded part of the turnbuckle.  Don’t take out too much – you just want to make it less restrictive around the opening, which shouldn’t have any real impact on the hold of the threads which will be further inside than the reamer will travel.

reamed2 You don’t need to take out lots of material reamed Standard ‘HD’ ball cup left and reamed-out ball cup right.

Something often overlooked is having each end of the link centred so it’s free to move smoothly during normal operation.  If you adjust the links off the car and attach them, chances are the link will be mis-aligned.

Building the links in this way, using grease and winding the settings in and out – along with opening up the end of the ball cup slightly – will help reduce the chance of the link becoming stiff enough that it’ll twist off when adjusting.

LinkTurnAbove: The links should have plenty of room to move smoothly if aligned properly.

Keeping things together and resisting the temptation to simply ‘pop’ off the links when adjusting / maintaining the car will prolong their life and reduce the chances of them coming off in a crash.

November 25, 2011

Billy Fischer takes double win @ Arizona State Champs

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 3:43 pm

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This past weekend was the Arizona State Championships in Scottsdale, AZ at SRS.  Although the grip level is usually high when the track drys out and the surface is swept. This year it was fairly cold and the moisture never got completely out of the track.  The surface became polished and the grip level was fairly low.  Team Durango’s Billy Fischer brought his DEX210, DEX410 and DESC410R to compete.

Billy took TQ and the win in 4WD with the DEX410

4wd Modified: TQ & WIN – DEX410
Billy started with the setup he ran at the Nationals and SIGP, just going down in shock oils between rounds 2 & 3, due to the cold weather. Billy TQ’d all four rounds of qualify which he backed up in the 8-minute long single leg A-Main – cruising to victory.

Billy took the TQ and win in 4WD Short Course with the DESC410R

Billy’s DEX410 setup from the race

4wd SC:  TQ & WIN – DESC410R
A heavy crash in round 4 of qualifying was the only mark on a near-perfect day for the DESC410R, as Billy took the opening three rounds of qualifying for the TQ spot.  Billy was running his normal setup with no changes – only running a 550 sized motor for the first time to test.  The 8 minute main was another great test for the DESC410R and Billy brought it home ahead of former World Champion Brian Kinwald for the win.

Billy took 2nd in qualifying and 3rd overall in 2WD with the DEX210

Billy’s DESC410R setup from the race

2wd Modified: 3RD overallDEX210
Billy's DEX210 In practice Billy tried lots of things with the new car including different sized packs & placement, rear toe, springs and shock oil.  Once he found a setup he liked he just concentrated on learning the new car – only changing tyres during qualifying. After the four rounds had run Billy lay 2nd on the grid with the DEX210 behind TQ man Ryan Maifield.

In the triple-leg A-Main Billy changed to a larger battery pack which helped in some areas but hurt in others. in A1 Billy finished 2nd, around 4 seconds off the leader Maifield.  After taking 3rd in A2 Billy was looking for a win in A3 – 5:15 on the clock and 45 seconds left to play and Billy had lead from the start but a bad landing cost him time and two positions as he came in for another 3rd to give him 3rd overall.

Billy’s DEX210 setup from the race

An awesome weekend for Team Durango!

TD310226 – 14mm Alloy Wheel Hex

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 2:30 pm

These Team Durango alloy wheel hexes are precision machined from high quality aluminium and then anodised in Team Durango gold for ultimate bling!

14mmalloyhexhubs

These alloy wheel hexes offer a stronger alternative to the standard plastic items on your kit. They have been machined on the front face to keep the weight down without sacrificing strength.

Sold as a pair, these fit both the rear axle of the DEX210 and the front and rear axle of the DEX410 models.

14mmalloyhexhubs-plain

TD310226 – ALLOY WHEEL HEX (14mm) 2pcs

DNX408T – 1/8th Scale Race Truggy

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 11:50 am

The DNX408T is coming…  dnx408t-teaser

November 24, 2011

DEX210 Ball Differential Build Guide – Part 1

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: — Stuart @ 4:31 pm

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150wideTTTThe DEX210 ball differential has been designed for optimum performance but some users have had problems correctly building and maintaining the diff.  As with any ball differential it’s a fine setting between too loose (and slipping) or too tight and damaging the plate/balls or other parts. The largest source of build errors comes from the circlip used to hold the thrust bearing in place.  This circlip ideally needs to be installed using circlip pliers but other methods are possible with care – it’s easy to bend the circlip and weaken its hold which could lead to premature failure.  We’ve put together a written guide (this article) and a video guide for the DEX210 ball diff build.

DEX210 Differential pro build
To start the differential build you need to clean all the parts thoroughly. You can use motor cleaner / brake cleaner or similar to degrease and clean the parts.  The reason for doing this is that the metal parts could be covered in oil and small metal fragments from the manufacturing process – and any oils on the ball differential could cause it to slip or perform poorly.

cleaning Cleaning using a cotton bud soaked in brake cleaner cleaning2 Soaking the parts speeds up the process of cleaning

thrustdiagram

THRUST BEARING
The thrust bearing is made up from three parts – two thrust washers and a caged thrust race which makes assembly and maintenance easier.  The thrust washers look nearly identical at first glance but they’re different from one another and designed to be assembled in a certain way. The thrust washers have different internal diameters and this can be easily checked by placing them onto the diff screw and seeing how far they’ll lean over.  The larger internal diameter washer is designed to sit on the inside of the thrust race (the same side as we install the circlip) and not contact the diff screw (hence the larger inner diameter).  The tighter washer is designed to sit against the head of the diff screw and will be placed into the diff half first.

thrustwashers2 The two thrust washers side by side thrustwashers3 The smaller diameter thrust washer doesn’t lean as far (on the right) and will sit against the head of the screw.

The easiest way to assemble the greased parts into the differential-half is to build the thrust bearing onto the diff screw and then drop the screw backwards through the diff half – allowing the screw to fall out of the outdrive whilst the thrust bearing sits inside the recess within the diff half.  With the tighter thrust washer on the diff screw – coat it well with the provided black grease before dropping the caged thrust balls on top.  Finish the assembly by coating the other thrust washer in grease and placing it on top to effectively sandwich the thrust balls.  You need enough grease to coat the parts well but not so much that excess grease will spin out and into the differential where it could cause slippage.

greasethrust1 Thrust bearing parts ready for greasing / assembly greasethrust2 Use plenty of black grease – but not too much!

With the thrust bearing assembly still on the screw – wipe off excess grease and drop it backwards through the outdrive to leave the thrust bearing inside the diff half.  A gentle prod with a driver should help the thrust bearing sit fully inside and expose the groove where the circlip will sit.

greased-thrust Thrust bearing assembled on the diff screw thrustplacing Slide the diff screw backwards through the outdrive to seat the thrust bearing assembly

CIRCLIP INSTALLATION
The way the differential is held together means this circlip takes a lot of strain as the differential screw sits on the outside thrust race plate and transfers the pressure to the inner-facing edge of the circlip.

Due to the way the circlip is manufactured, one side has a slightly flatter appearance than the other and for the best possible fit it’s advisable to install the circlip so this flatter side faces away from the thrust bearing and in toward the differential.   It can be hard to see the difference looking at the side profile but looking at the face of the circlip and comparing each side makes things a little easier.  The reason for orienting the circlip in this way is that the sharper edges of the flatter side will hold better against the lip of the groove inside the diff half.

circlipsides
circlipgroove3 The groove where the circlip will sit circliptools2 Two different circlip pliers – you’ll need some which can work with small circlips

Using the proper tools for the job is the best way to avoid damage or other problems later. Some small circlip pliars are highly reccomended for this part of the build.  The circlip needs compressing slightly to get it into position over the thrust bearing and then it should snap back into shape to hold firmly in place.

circlip1 circlipinstall_0 With the circlip compressed – place it into the outdrive

FIXING A DAMAGED CIRCLIP
If you’ve managed to damage the clip during installation, either by using incorrect tools or by applying too much force – you might be able to expand the clip back to its original shape when its in position by opening up the open ends of the clip.  Using a large flat-bladed driver, hold one side of the blade against the outdrive and between the open ends of the circlip – then turn the driver to force the two ends apart and stretch the clip back into its original shape to fill the groove.

circlip-diagram3

ASSEMBLING THE DIFF
To make building the differential easier, use some clear silicone grease to attach the differential rings to the diff halves – this just stops the rings from falling off during assembly.

greaseoutdrive ringsattached

There are several ways to build and lube a ball differential and some of the methods are down to personal preference rather than there being a definitive method.  Suffice to say, the differential needs to be well lubed with clear silicone grease but past a certain point you’ll just be wasting the grease and making a mess inside the gear case.

Place the two ballraces along with the shim between them over the extended sleeve of the outdrive and grease both differential rings so the diff balls will be running over the clear grease right from the start.

greasedring bearings-on

add-balls Place the moulded differential gear over the bearings and slide it fully down over them against the diff ring.

Using a driver liberally coated in clear grease, pick each of the 14 diff balls up one at a time and place them carefully into each pocket on the diff.  Make sure each gets a touch of grease to keep it in place.

Place the thrust bearing side diff half over the gear to complete the differential and drop the screw through.

crush-spring Compress the spring finalassembly1 Holding the diff screw in place before turning it over finalassembly2 Ready for the spring and T-nut

Place a driver through the outdrive to keep the screw from falling out and turn the whole assembly over to drop the spring and T-Nut through the opposite outdrive.  Turn the diff on its side and hold the T-Nut in place whilst tightening the diff screw to clamp the diff together.

TIP: The diff spring is freshly wound and has never been compressed – to achieve a consistent setting we advise compressing the spring with some pliers a couple of times before installation.

They best  way to achieve the desired setting for the diff is to tighten using only finger pressure and test.  Keep tightening a little and testing and don’t be tempted to over-tighten and possibly damage parts.  The final setting will need to be fine-tuned in the car, and we’ll go into more depth in the next installment of our DEX210 ball diff build guide. Look out for Part 2 of this build guide, coming soon.

end

November 21, 2011

DEX410 wins Round 1, Danish Championship

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 2:41 pm
kim

Kim Neilsen put in a great effort at the opening round of the Danish Championship with his DEX410 and DEX210 buggies – taking the win in 4WD with his DEX410 and taking TQ & 2nd in 2WD with the new DEX210.

Thanks to racegallery.dk for the use of the photo – www.racegallery.dk

Perfect ‘triple win’ for Lutz at Texas Offroad Shootout

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 12:09 pm

Ryan Lutz reports on a perfect weekend in Texas,  where he snatched TQ & Wins in all three classes entered.

lutz-texasoffroadrace

Saturday November 19th, 2011
Once again I find myself in the South, this time just outside of Dallas, TX at the other large awesome Mikes Hobby Shop in the state. Wow what a facility. Indoor Electric offroad and onroad track and an outdoor offroad track along with a rock crawling course and a slot car track! Not to mention a huge hobby shop! This weekend i’m attending the Texas Offroad Shootout and running my usual as of late Pro Nitro Buggy, E-buggy, and SC. Here’s how qualifications went for me:

Short Course – On my DESC410R I decided to add a little more weight to the rear. I already had the side weights and the rear skid weight but I also added another 1 oz under the rear diff. This is the best my truck has ever felt on a large outdoor track. It really helped with stability and my truck was just excellent all day. I was able to TQ Q1 by about 6 seconds over Wheeler. In Q2 I was on another TQ run when my battery connecter melted ending my run. In Q3 I was able to beat my rd 1 TQ by a few seconds and thus take the overall. This event utilized Rocket Round which I hadn’t done in a while but either way I managed the TQ.

Electric-Buggy – This was again the fastest vehicle of the weekend on this track. I got down to a 26.2 while my nitro was 26.3 and Wheelers truggy was also 26.3. So my DEX408 was dialed once again! I went out and TQ’d the first two rounds by over a lap each one. In Q3 I made a few mistakes trying to drive it harder and drift it a bit and thus didn’t contend to beat one of my TQ’s but I already had it wrapped up and came away with the TQ!

Nitro-Buggy – My DNX408 feels awesome this weekend. My Alpha A852 is screaming and yesterday in practice I was getting over 11min on this track – Woo hoo for fuel mileage!  In Q1 I found a line on the top right of the track where I jumped over this section and it shaved maybe .2ths a lap off my lap time. One lap however I ended up over the berm loosing 10 seconds and thus qualifying 2nd for the round. In Q2 I came out and ran much cleaner and was 6seconds ahead of TQ and made a small mistake. I came back though and still took the TQ from Wheeler by 2 seconds. In Q3 we ran in the dark and it was a bit hard to see. However I was managing to keep it clean and I know I was nearly on a TQ run but I don’t know how it ended up. Either way I took the Win and thus the TQ.

So a trifecta of TQ’s which hopefully tomorrow I can convert into 3 W’s!

Sunday November 20th, 2011
Main day rolled around and the goal of the day for the race was to avoid the chance of rain! Luckily we got it all in about 30 minutes before the rain started! For me as robotically mentioned above it was a success. Here’s how it went down.

Short Course – Going into the main I thought to myself that this was going to be my toughest 10 minute main to finish that i’ve had yet in this class. Reason being is that usually they have been triple A’s and thus if I screw up the first one and dump (a la R/C Pro Finals) then I still have 2 more to readjust my driving. At this event there was only 1, 10min A-main and so I really needed to drive cautious. Out of the gate Josh Wheeler and myself got out ahead and built a little lead and put on a show for the crowd for the entire race. For the first 9 minutes we were never more than say 1 second apart. I could tell he was using more battery than me and so I hoped that if it came down to it he would dump. I stayed conservative for the most part but about 4 minutes in a made a small bobble and let him by but when we got to the straight where I had been taking it very conservative I decided I wanted the lead back and so I pulled trigger just that one time and flew by him on the straight. I would again give up the lead say 7 minutes in and then I decided to just push him to hopefully make him dump. With about 1 minute to go I knew I had conserved a good amount of battery so I decided to start to push it. I got really close behind him but he tubed it and got stuck but I was right behind and I bumped him off the pipe and instead switched places with him and I got stuck. He then got about a 5 second lead because I had to get marshaled. Then the next lap was the last lap and over the double in the middle he dumped! So I was able to take the win on that account and when recharging my batteries I only used 4400 MaH in the 10 minutes! I tell you what, conserving batteries is no fun to me but it’s cool to be able to use it as a strategy to help when it works as well!

Electric-Buggy – I realized after the race that I used the wrong set of used tires in my E-buggy race. I had 2 sets of used impacts in my bags and I grabbed the ones with black foams instead of red foams. This explained to me why my car was a bit more edgy and catchy in the little ruts that had developed. Either way though I guess I just wanted to make the race that much more of a challenge for myself. Starting from the pole was actually a bad spot for me personally because it didn’t allow me to do my line through the section directly thereafter. So I crashed basically right away and had to work back through the pack. I did so quickly and made it up to the lead pair where we would swap places for quite a few minutes. I haven’t made so many boneheaded mistakes in a race in quite some time but I was just crashing more than usual. In the end though with about 2 minutes to go I got by David Joor for the lead and just cleaned it up to finish out front and take the victory.

Nitro-Buggy – My DNX408 was solid for me once again. I am really happy with my buggy right now and it doesn’t matter where I race it I feel I have a good grasp on the car and that inspires confidence! In this 25 minute main I got tagged at the very start but did a 360 and didn’t loose position. I then gapped out a bit as 2nd made a mistake. I quickly got a 6 second lead and knew I wasn’t going to look back. I worked on running clean lines and not goofing up my inverse berm jumping section and it paid off as at the end of the 25min main I had a 1 lap victory.

Overall it was a great event. A little light on turnout unfortunately but I was told there has been a lot of racing in Texas and the surrounding area lately so that may have been a big reason for it. ( I should know, i’ve been living in this region lately it seems!
The facility of Mike’s Hobby Shop is quite amazing and the locals really do have something special that they shouldn’t take for granted. I appreciate the hospitality of those that worked there and all the great people I met either for the first time this weekend or got to see again! This hobby really does have a great group of people!

Next up is the Fall Brawl in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. I’ve heard some names like Maifield and maybe Drake might be there? I’m sure plenty more along with the always fast locals in that area, Looking forward to it!

-Lutzinator

Hupo dominates ‘Dirt’ race, Germany – with DEX210 & DEX410

Filed under: News — Stuart @ 11:54 am

Hupo Honigl reports on the indoor ‘DIRT’ race held in Munich, Germany, where Hupo secured wins in 2WD and 4WD with the DEX210 adn DEX410 respectively.

title

The race was held in Germany, not far from Munich – Edling. The Name is a bit confusing, because it is called Indoor “Dirt” race, but the track is a non permanent carpet track; The organisers nickname is “Dirty” and that´s where the name comes from. The whole crew made an amazing job all weekend and the track was one of the best carpet tracks i have ever raced on!

This was my first race on carpet with the new DEX210 and I decided to start with the 4 gear mid motor configuration; The car was awesome from the beginning but because the carpet had really high grip, I decided to change to the 3 gear mid motor configuration, which gave me the extra steering to make the car perfect!

In qualifying I switched to the new Nanobyte D-Boots tires, which made my cars even faster. By the end of qualifying the traction got lower because the carpet lost a bit of grip and I went back to a 4 gear mid-motor setup, which made my car again perfect for the changing conditions.

I managed to TQ both classes, my 2wd overall times would have been enough for 3rd on the grid, which shows how good the DEX210 is! Overall we had 4 DEX210’s in the 2WD main and 3 DEX410’s in the 4WD main.

Finals went even better for Durango and we finished 1-2-3 in the first 2wd main – In the end I won with Markus Metsch also DEX210 finished 2nd – Martin Kreil who finished 3rd in the first main had some heavy carnage in the other mains and finished 5th. Marcus Prihoda with his first outing with the DEX210 finished 7th; Also in 4wd I could win in front of Markus Metsch DEX410 again – Martin Kreil finished 6th after again some tough finals.

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