Anti-roll bars are included in the DEX410 and DEX410 2010 Spec kit. Now available from Team Durango are anti-roll bar sets for the DEX410R. These are part numbers:-

TD230012 – Rear Anti-Roll Bar Set

TD230013 – Front Anti-Roll Bar Set

Anti-roll bars are a useful tuning option. They allow you to add stiffness in roll without effecting the stiffness of the shocks over large bumps and jumps where the wheels at the front or rear of the buggy move up and down together. They work by transferring the load from the heavily loaded outer suspension to the lightly loaded inner suspension during cornering. This reduces the roll angle so the buggy corners flatter. In general anti-roll bars are used on smoother, higher grip tracks as they may not work so well on really bumpy or rutted tracks.

A front roll bar will decrease the steering of the buggy, and will make the buggy smoother and more consistent through a turn. It will stop the front end digging-in.

A rear roll bar will increase the rotation of the buggy in the middle of a corner and will help the buggy square-up faster coming out of a turn.

It is important when installing your anti-roll bar to make sure that all the components can move freely with no binding, with the minimum of play.

Here we show you how we recommend installing the TD230012 Anti-Roll Bar Set to the rear of the DEX410R. Fitting the front roll bar is a very similar process, but requires the removal of the front diff cover as this is used to hold the front roll bar in place.

The TD230012 set includes all the metal parts you require.

The TD230012 set includes all the metal parts you require

The plastic parts needed are included with your DEX410R kit. The holders for the roll bars are part of TD330003 parts tree. The rod ends are included on the parts tree TD330001.

The plastic parts are included in your kit

The first step is to build the links for the roll bar. You need to build two of these. The gap between the rod ends should be 18mm. It is important to make sure both the rod ends have the same gap so the roll bar works evenly on left and right hand corners.

Ensure both roll bar links are built to the same length

Now place the pivot balls into one rod end of each of your roll bar links. The pivot balls should pop into place and move freely inside the rod end.

The next part of the process is to put the anti-roll bar pivot balls onto the roll bar. Place thread lock onto the M3×3mm screw and partially screw it into the anti-roll bar pivot ball. Now push the roll bar into the hole in the pivot ball so that the roll bar comes flush with the end of the pivot ball. The set screw should be positioned so that the it is angled slightly upwards when the roll bar is placed flat on the desk. Now repeat this process for the second anti-roll bar pivot ball. It is important for equal roll bar action left and right to ensure that the set screws are both at the same angle as the pivot balls sit off-set on the roll bar.

Make sure the set screws in the anti-roll bar pivot balls sit at the same angle to the roll bar as each other

Now it is time to attach the roll bar to the buggy. The first step is to remove the wheels and the shocks from the buggy. Now place the roll bar onto the buggy and secure with the roll bar holders. The roll bar holders are held in place by the 2 M3×6mm button head screws included in the anti-roll bar set.

Attach the roll bar to the bulkhead of the buggy

When you have installed the roll bar holders you need to fit the M3×4 set screws into the roll bar holders. These set screws are there to reduce the free play in the assembly fixing the roll bar to the buggy. Set screws are used as they allow for adjustment for different thickness roll bars. When screwing in the set screw you need to ensure that it is not too tight so that it stops the roll bar dropping under it’s own weight. You should screw one of the set screws in first until you feel the set screw touch the roll bar. At this point you may need to unscrew the set screw a small amount so that the roll bar will drop under it’s own weight. Repeat this process with the set screw in the other roll bar holder.

Tighten the set screws to remove free play in the roll bar

Now it is time to fit the roll bar links that were assembled earlier to the buggy. These are attached to the wishbone by a M3×8mm button head screw. The screw passes through the wishbone and then screws into the pivot ball. It is a good idea to use thread lock on this screw.You can hold the pivot ball with some needle nose pliers when you are tightening up the pivot ball.

Attach the roll bar link to the wishbone

When you have attached the roll bar link to the wishbone you should attach the other end to the anti-roll bar pivot ball. Make sure that the assembly moves freely at this stage. You can rotate the plastic parts of the roll bar links now so that they sit square with the pivot balls. Repleat this process with the other side.

Now the assembly is fitted it is time to check the action is equal

If the assembly all moves freely then it is time to check that the anti-roll bar has a equal effect on both sides of the suspension. This can be done by lifting one side slowly and checking at what point the other side starts to lift up.

Lift one side and see at what point the other side moves. You want the effect to be the same on both the left and right hand sides of the suspension

If you find that when you lift one side it has more of an effect than the other side then you need to adjust the length of the roll bar links to equal out the roll bar effect left-to-right.

For example if you find that when you lift the right hand suspension arm the left hand suspension arm moves sooner than the right hand suspension arm moves when you lift the left hand suspension arm then you should slightly shorten the length of the right hand roll bar link. Shorten this in small steps, checking on the effect of the adjustment until the suspension arms lift equally on the left and right hand side of the buggy.

There are a couple of tuning options with roll bars. For fine adjusment of the roll bar stiffness you can move the anti-roll bar pivot ball on the roll bar. Moving the anti-roll bar pivot ball towards the end of the roll bar will have the effect of softening the action of the anti-roll bar.

For a bigger adjustment we offer different thickness roll bars. A thicker roll bar has a greater effect than a thinner roll bar as it will transfer more of the force from one side of the suspension to the other. The roll bar sets come with 1.5mm thick roll bars, we also offer roll bars in 1.3mm and 2.0mm thicknesses for both front and rear. Here are the part numbers for our anti-roll bars.

TD330047 – ANTI ROLL BAR FRONT 1.3mm

TD330048 – ANTI ROLL BAR FRONT 1.5mm

TD330049 – ANTI ROLL BAR REAR 1.3mm

TD330050 – ANTI ROLL BAR REAR 1.5mm

TD330051 - ANTI ROLL BAR FRONT 2.0mm

TD330052 – ANTI ROLL BAR REAR 2.0mm

In this guide we show you how to build the Team Durango shocks that feature on both the DEX410 and the DEX410R models. These shocks are available seperately as part numbers TD230010 – 1/10 Electric Shock Absorber Set: Front and TD230011 – 1/10 Electric Shock Absorber Set: Rear.

A well built set of shocks will ensure consistent handling and reliable performance. Here we show you how we recommend building your shocks to ensure consistency and repeatability when buiding your shocks.

Assemble the piston on the shock shaft. The first step is to place the small washer on to the shaft.

Place the small washer onto the shock shaft

Then place the piston on the shaft making sure the piston is the correct way up. Now put the screw in to hold the piston in place. We recommend using thread lock on this screw to ensure it does not come loose in use. If using Team Durango red thread lock you only need a small amount, if you use too much the screw may be difficult to remove.

Use a small amount of thread lock on the screw to hold the piston in place

The piston you need to choose will depend on the surface you are running on. Please check the set ups in our set ups section on our website here for good starting points for which pistons and oils you will need.

The assembled shock shaft and piston

Now assemble the shock seals inside the shock bodies. We recommend lubricating these parts with shock oil as you assemble them. You need the thin black plastic spacer first, making sure that the flat surface will face the o-ring.

Make sure the flat face of the first plastic spacer is facing up to where the o-ring will sit

Then place an o-ring, the thick black plastic spacer, another o-ring and finally the wide black plastic spacer. The flat face of the wide spacer needs to be facing the o-ring. When the parts are in place screw on the shock seal cap.

The assembled shock body

Now you can put the shock shaft in place. You must take care when doing this so that you don’t damage the o-rings. Some set ups require internal limiters to be placed in the shocks. If you intend to run limiters inside the shocks then you need to put these onto the shock shaft now before you push the shock shaft into place. Having placed any limiters onto the shock shaft you should now place a few drops of shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft and then carefully push the shock shaft through the shock seals.

A small amount of shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft will protect the o-rings

Now put in place the shock cap o-ring. It is easier to do this now than when the shock is full of oil.

Now you are ready to fill up the shocks with oil. Fill the shock bodies so that the oil is level with the top of the shock body. Then slowly move the piston up and down to allow air bubbles to escape from behind the piston. Stand the shocks up for a while to allow any more air bubbles to escape.

When all the air bubbles have escaped from the shock you may be required to top up the oil. The oil should be level with the top of the shock when the piston is at the bottom of the shock.

Now with the shock fully extended you need to screw on the shock cap.

The assembled shock is now ready to be bled

With the shock cap in place you need to bleed the shock. This process removed excess oil so that the shock piston can move all the way inside the shock body without becoming hydraulically locked. During this process you can tune the rebound of the shock. Here we give a good starting point that will work well in most situations.

Place 4mm of spacers over the shock shaft and push the shock shaft into the shock body until there is 4mm between the bottom of the shock body and the top of the chamfer where the shock shaft starts to reduce in diameter.

With 4mm of spacers you can see where to push the shock shaft to

Wipe off any excess oil that has come out of the bleed screw hole and screw in the bleed screw into the shock cap.

Now fit the bleed screw

Now you need to fit the shock rod end to your shocks. To do this you need to hold the shock shaft without marking its surface. This can be done by holding the shock shaft with non-serrated pliers with a piece of paper in between the shock shaft and the pliers.

Hold the shaft with non-serrated pliers so you don’t mark it

When you have hold of the shock shaft you need to screw the rod end into place. At this point you need to set the length of the shock. One method of measuring the length of the shock is to measure the gap between the shock seal cap and the top of the shock rod end, this is a very accurate way to measure your shocks to ensure that you have equal shock lengths on both sides of your car.

You can measure the shock lenght like this

Please see the set up sheets on the Team Durango website for recommended shock lengths.

When you have done this you can screw on the shock nut. This has an o-ring inside of it to stop it from adjusting by itself. Push the o-ring into the groove and screw the shock nut onto the shock body. We recommend screwing this all the way to the top of the threads, then mark the nut inline with the hole in the shock cap. Then you will be able to count the number of turns of the shock nut accurately when making adjustments to your ride height.

Mark the shock nut so you can make set up changes quickly and easily

With the shock nut in place you can put the spring on to the shock and then the spring retainer.

Ready for installation on your car

Now all that needs to be done is to push the pivot balls into the shock cap and the shock rod end and your shocks are ready for installation on to your car.