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June 12, 2012

‘210 Gear Diff Build

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , , — Stuart @ 11:38 pm

The optional gear differential TD210034 – for the DEX210 and other ‘210 based vehicles such as the Stadium Truck DEST210 and Short Course DESC210, provides extra tuning possibilities and a longer life between rebuilds.

The gear differential is tuned by varying the oil viscosity used. The oil slows the differential action down, which makes it tunable over a wide range of settings when compared to the ball differential – which needs to be in a very precise range to avoid damage.

The gear differential is, at first sight, quite complex – with lots of gears, shims, seals and other parts. Getting the build right however is relatively simple and straight forward, as long as you take your time and follow the guide below.


The first job is to assemble the spider gears onto the cross shafts and place them into the diff gear itself.  The shafts are recessed in the centre to allow them to sit at the same level when assembled.   Place a gear over either end of the shaft and follow it up with one of the supplied shims. It’s a good idea to put a little diff oil onto the shafts when placing on the gears and shims to keep everything in place and allow easier install.

shafts assembledshaft1

The main gear is sided – so the cross shafts will only insert from one side. Carefully drop the first shaft in taking care not to drop any shims or gears, and line up the shaft so the centre flat faces upward. Drop the second shaft into the diff gear with the flat spot facing down so it engages with the flat spot on the first shaft. Place the gear on your work bench for now whilst you build the sides.

assembledshaft2 Line up the cross shafts and drop them into position assembledshaft3 This is what it should look like!

diffsides The sides of the differential consist of moulded covers which house the outdrives and seals.

Grease the outdrive shaft and insert it into the plastic diff side.

Put a few drops of diff oil onto the shaft from the inside and slip the x-ring seal and thick silver washer over – and push these down until the seal is sat down properly.

diffside1 Grease the shaft well diffside2
diffside3 Put diff oil onto the shaft before adding the seal diffside4 Push the seal into position

An e-clip secures the shaft in place – use a flat bladed screw driver or pliers to click this into place. Put a few more drops of oil over the hexagonal shaft of the outdrive and slip the 14T gear over the end. It should just slide into place – don’t worry if it feels a little loose as this won’t matter once the diff is assembled. Both sides are identical.

eclip Add some more oil before placing the washer and e-clip over the seal addgear Push the 14t gear over the shaft

To fill the differential with oil you first need to attach one side of the assembly – fill with oil and then attach the other side. Gaskets are used to seal between the main gear body and moulded sides. Carefully line up the first gasket over the side the cross shafts and gears were inserted – make sure the tabs on the gasket line up with the indents on the main gear.


gasket1 Line up one of the diff sides with outdrive and 14t gear attached – taking care that the gear doesn’t fall off, place it over the main gear. You may need to spin the outdrive back and forth to move the gears around and let everything settle in place.

Four small countersunk screws attach each side moulding to the main gear. The screws should be tightened in a cross pattern to make sure the side attaches squarely. Screw each one in with finger pressure only. You may find it helps to back each screw off a turn and re-tighten in a cross pattern. Don’t be tempted to crank down on these screws – you could warp the gear or moulded sides and actually cause the differential to leak / perform poorly.

It’s a good idea to mark up this side of the differential at this point. This will help identify which side gives you access to the gears. Knowing which side is which is helpful when it comes to maintenance, since opening up the other side means you’ll not have to worry about the gears moving or falling out, and you can just place it upside down to allow the oil to drain before re-filling with your chosen viscosity.

cross-pattern Tighten the screws gently filling-oil2 Fill the diff slowly

Before you can attach the other side you need to fill the differential with oil. Fill the oil until the cross shafts are covered. Don’t fill it to the top, as the 14T gear still needs to sit down in the differential. Attach the gasket and tighten the remaining side of the differential just like the first one.  You’ll probably find a small amount of leakage if the differential was over-filled. Remember not to crank on these screws and damage the mouldings.

filling-oi3 You can help the oil settle by gently turning the gears filling-oil Probably a little too much oil, but you can always adjust the level

Once the differential is together, check for any leaks that might have occured whilst tightening. If you’ve put a couple of drops of oil too much into the diff then it’s natural for this to escape whilst tightening – just clean it off with a rag. If the gears feel notchy, they should soon bed-in when the vehicle is driven.

The gear differential for the 210 buggies and trucks is a great tuning aid and lasts longer between rebuilds.


December 6, 2011

DEX210 Motor Configuration Guide

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: — Stuart @ 12:12 am

The DEX210 buggy has a vast array of tuning possibilities and the most notable of these is the changeable motor position.  How and why to change the motor position, and the possible effect it will give on the race track aren’t quite as obvious however.

Rear-Motor VS Mid-Motor layouts

rm4lines Running the DEX210 in rear motor or mid-motor will have dramatic affects on the driveability of the car on different surfaces. Put simply, the rear-motor layout will have more weight over the rear wheels for better traction at the expense of steering; the motor will have some degree of pendulum effect and the more widely-spaced weight distribution will heighten the inertia when turning, so the car will naturally be a little slower to react.  The mid-motor layout places the motor and battery further forward in the chassis giving more steering and the more compact weight distribution will have a lower inertia, allowing the car to rotate more quickly.


As well as the physical motor position, mid and rear, the DEX210 also allows you to run in either 3 or 4 gear setups in both positions. This allows the racer to run the motor in the same direction as the wheels (4-Gear) or reversed (3-Gear) – allowing the torque of the motor to either fight (3-Gear) the effect of the spinning wheels and differential or work with them (4-Gear).


The number of gears refers to the total number inside the gearbox – with the layshaft gear and differential gear being driven by either one or two idler gears, giving 3 or 4 gears in total.  The idler gears have no effect on gear ratios since they simply transmit the power from the layshaft gear down to the differential.


The traditional rear-motor format is a 3-Gear setup, with the motor shaft facing to the right, and the motor spinning backwards. This reduces the chance of wheelies.  The most popular mid-motor layout has the motor facing to the left and running in the same direction as the wheels. This gives more control in the air and more traction at the rear tyres under acceleration.

RM3 – Rear Motor, 3-Gear
This is the most common configuration for cars running on a dirt type surface.


The rotation of the motor is in the opposite direction to the rotation of the wheels. The torque of the motor is in opposition to the rotation of the motor and is ‘aimed’ between the motor and the contact patch of the tyre. This causes the rear end to squat under acceleration, aiding forward traction whilst keeping wheelies to a minimum. The cars weight distribution is also more biased to the rear in this configuration than MM configurations. The car will tend to jump with a nose-up attitude compared to MM configurations.

RM4 – Rear Motor, 4-Gear
This configuration hasn’t been seen on a 2wd car before.


The rotation of the motor is in the same direction as the rotation of the wheels. The torque of the motor is in opposition to the rotation of the motor and is ‘aimed’ behind the motor making the rear of the car squat much more under acceleration. This can provide better rear traction, but the car will have a greater tendency to perform a wheelie. The car’s weight distribution is also more biased to the rear in this configuration than MM configurations. The car will tend to jump with more of a nose-up attitude than in MM configurations.

MM4 – Mid Motor, 4-Gear
This is the most common configuration for cars running on a high grip surface eg. artificial turf and carpet style tracks.


The rotation of the motor is in the same direction as the rotation of the wheels. The torque of the motor is in opposition to the rotation of the motor and is ‘aimed’ between the motor and the contact patch of the tyre. This causes the rear end to squat under acceleration aiding forward traction whilst keeping wheelies to minimum. The cars weight distribution is also more biased towards the front than in RM configurations. The car will also tend to jump with a more level attitude than in RM configurations.

MM3 – Mid Motor, 3-Gear
This was the first orientation for most early Mid Motor conversions. It is still suitable for cars running on a high grip surface eg. artificial turf and carpet style tracks.


The rotation of the motor is in the opposite direction to the rotation of the wheels. The torque of the motor is in opposition to the rotation of the motor and is ‘aimed’ in front of the motor. This causes the rear end to squat very little under acceleration and provides very little mechanical grip unless there is already sufficient grip from the tyres. Thus forward traction is not as high as MM4. The car’s weight distribution is also more biased towards the front than in RM configurations. The car will also tend to jump with a more level attitude than in RM configurations.

RM (Rear-Motor) cars have a much larger pendulum effect when sliding, and an RM car will take more effort to start sliding – but once sliding it will take longer to stop sliding and re-gain forward momentum.

November 29, 2011

Turnbuckle Build Guide


Having links pop-off during a heavy crash on the race track is frustrating but understandable – having them pop-off during adjustments however is possibly even more frustrating but it’s something you can prevent.  This guide is to help users build their turnbuckles to minimize the chances of them popping off during adjustments.

unpopped-adjustments Adjust settings without taking the link off

The steering and camber link ball cups on all 10th scale Team Durango vehicles have holes to allow adjustments without popping-off the link and it’s good practice to always use this method when making adjustments.

Every time you pop-off a link it gets a little looser and easier to pop-off next time – which could be during a crash or when making adjustments.  A 2.5mm hex driver can be simply poked through the ball cup to unwind the ball stud and reposition it in the desired location or to add/remove shims.

DEX210 front camber link: front210turnbucklescompared

locking-the-link The reason the links can pop-off during adjustment is due to the turnbuckle having too much friction inside the ball cup.

Left: Locking the link with hex tools will stop it popping off when adjusting.

A quick fix to stop the links popping off during adjustment is to put 2.5mm allen keys / hex drivers in each end of the link – locking the link and stopping it turning and popping off.  This works well for really tight links but isn’t a real long-term solution.

assemblelink To make adjustments easier first grease the threads of the turnbuckle – and then wind it fully in and out of the ball cup a couple of times to free things up. You want the grease the inside of the ball cup where the threads are – so make sure the grease gets inside and isn’t simply wiped-off when assembling the link.

Right: Thread the turnbuckle in and out a couple of times to help future adjustments.

An easy way to build the links is using a 3mm driver shaft placed through the ball cup to hold it in place whilst you turn the turnbuckle (or turn the ball cup whilst holding the turnbuckle). Don’t use anything with a smaller diameter as it might deform the ball cup.  The combination of the greased threads and running the turnbuckle in and out of the ball cup should make future adjustments a lot easier.

geasethreads A small dab of grease on the turnbuckle pre-ream Threaded all the way in

Using the DEX210 as an example – both the front camber and steering links are built with 1 or 2mm of un-threaded turnbuckle inside the ball cup, depending on setup – this makes adjustments hard even with the aforementioned preparation.  On the shortest possible front camber link setting, there’s a substantial length of un-threaded turnbuckle going into the ball cup, making adjustment less easy.

open-rodend The standard HD ball cup has no real accommodation for the un-threaded part of the turnbuckle reaming You can use a reamer to open up the ball cup a little

When building the links you can open them up slightly with a reamer to accommodate the slightly wider un-threaded part of the turnbuckle.  Don’t take out too much – you just want to make it less restrictive around the opening, which shouldn’t have any real impact on the hold of the threads which will be further inside than the reamer will travel.

reamed2 You don’t need to take out lots of material reamed Standard ‘HD’ ball cup left and reamed-out ball cup right.

Something often overlooked is having each end of the link centred so it’s free to move smoothly during normal operation.  If you adjust the links off the car and attach them, chances are the link will be mis-aligned.

Building the links in this way, using grease and winding the settings in and out – along with opening up the end of the ball cup slightly – will help reduce the chance of the link becoming stiff enough that it’ll twist off when adjusting.

LinkTurnAbove: The links should have plenty of room to move smoothly if aligned properly.

Keeping things together and resisting the temptation to simply ‘pop’ off the links when adjusting / maintaining the car will prolong their life and reduce the chances of them coming off in a crash.

November 24, 2011

DEX210 Ball Differential Build Guide – Part 1

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: — Stuart @ 4:31 pm


150wideTTTThe DEX210 ball differential has been designed for optimum performance but some users have had problems correctly building and maintaining the diff.  As with any ball differential it’s a fine setting between too loose (and slipping) or too tight and damaging the plate/balls or other parts. The largest source of build errors comes from the circlip used to hold the thrust bearing in place.  This circlip ideally needs to be installed using circlip pliers but other methods are possible with care – it’s easy to bend the circlip and weaken its hold which could lead to premature failure.  We’ve put together a written guide (this article) and a video guide for the DEX210 ball diff build.

DEX210 Differential pro build
To start the differential build you need to clean all the parts thoroughly. You can use motor cleaner / brake cleaner or similar to degrease and clean the parts.  The reason for doing this is that the metal parts could be covered in oil and small metal fragments from the manufacturing process – and any oils on the ball differential could cause it to slip or perform poorly.

cleaning Cleaning using a cotton bud soaked in brake cleaner cleaning2 Soaking the parts speeds up the process of cleaning


The thrust bearing is made up from three parts – two thrust washers and a caged thrust race which makes assembly and maintenance easier.  The thrust washers look nearly identical at first glance but they’re different from one another and designed to be assembled in a certain way. The thrust washers have different internal diameters and this can be easily checked by placing them onto the diff screw and seeing how far they’ll lean over.  The larger internal diameter washer is designed to sit on the inside of the thrust race (the same side as we install the circlip) and not contact the diff screw (hence the larger inner diameter).  The tighter washer is designed to sit against the head of the diff screw and will be placed into the diff half first.

thrustwashers2 The two thrust washers side by side thrustwashers3 The smaller diameter thrust washer doesn’t lean as far (on the right) and will sit against the head of the screw.

The easiest way to assemble the greased parts into the differential-half is to build the thrust bearing onto the diff screw and then drop the screw backwards through the diff half – allowing the screw to fall out of the outdrive whilst the thrust bearing sits inside the recess within the diff half.  With the tighter thrust washer on the diff screw – coat it well with the provided black grease before dropping the caged thrust balls on top.  Finish the assembly by coating the other thrust washer in grease and placing it on top to effectively sandwich the thrust balls.  You need enough grease to coat the parts well but not so much that excess grease will spin out and into the differential where it could cause slippage.

greasethrust1 Thrust bearing parts ready for greasing / assembly greasethrust2 Use plenty of black grease – but not too much!

With the thrust bearing assembly still on the screw – wipe off excess grease and drop it backwards through the outdrive to leave the thrust bearing inside the diff half.  A gentle prod with a driver should help the thrust bearing sit fully inside and expose the groove where the circlip will sit.

greased-thrust Thrust bearing assembled on the diff screw thrustplacing Slide the diff screw backwards through the outdrive to seat the thrust bearing assembly

The way the differential is held together means this circlip takes a lot of strain as the differential screw sits on the outside thrust race plate and transfers the pressure to the inner-facing edge of the circlip.

Due to the way the circlip is manufactured, one side has a slightly flatter appearance than the other and for the best possible fit it’s advisable to install the circlip so this flatter side faces away from the thrust bearing and in toward the differential.   It can be hard to see the difference looking at the side profile but looking at the face of the circlip and comparing each side makes things a little easier.  The reason for orienting the circlip in this way is that the sharper edges of the flatter side will hold better against the lip of the groove inside the diff half.

circlipgroove3 The groove where the circlip will sit circliptools2 Two different circlip pliers – you’ll need some which can work with small circlips

Using the proper tools for the job is the best way to avoid damage or other problems later. Some small circlip pliars are highly reccomended for this part of the build.  The circlip needs compressing slightly to get it into position over the thrust bearing and then it should snap back into shape to hold firmly in place.

circlip1 circlipinstall_0 With the circlip compressed – place it into the outdrive

If you’ve managed to damage the clip during installation, either by using incorrect tools or by applying too much force – you might be able to expand the clip back to its original shape when its in position by opening up the open ends of the clip.  Using a large flat-bladed driver, hold one side of the blade against the outdrive and between the open ends of the circlip – then turn the driver to force the two ends apart and stretch the clip back into its original shape to fill the groove.


To make building the differential easier, use some clear silicone grease to attach the differential rings to the diff halves – this just stops the rings from falling off during assembly.

greaseoutdrive ringsattached

There are several ways to build and lube a ball differential and some of the methods are down to personal preference rather than there being a definitive method.  Suffice to say, the differential needs to be well lubed with clear silicone grease but past a certain point you’ll just be wasting the grease and making a mess inside the gear case.

Place the two ballraces along with the shim between them over the extended sleeve of the outdrive and grease both differential rings so the diff balls will be running over the clear grease right from the start.

greasedring bearings-on

add-balls Place the moulded differential gear over the bearings and slide it fully down over them against the diff ring.

Using a driver liberally coated in clear grease, pick each of the 14 diff balls up one at a time and place them carefully into each pocket on the diff.  Make sure each gets a touch of grease to keep it in place.

Place the thrust bearing side diff half over the gear to complete the differential and drop the screw through.

crush-spring Compress the spring finalassembly1 Holding the diff screw in place before turning it over finalassembly2 Ready for the spring and T-nut

Place a driver through the outdrive to keep the screw from falling out and turn the whole assembly over to drop the spring and T-Nut through the opposite outdrive.  Turn the diff on its side and hold the T-Nut in place whilst tightening the diff screw to clamp the diff together.

TIP: The diff spring is freshly wound and has never been compressed – to achieve a consistent setting we advise compressing the spring with some pliers a couple of times before installation.

They best  way to achieve the desired setting for the diff is to tighten using only finger pressure and test.  Keep tightening a little and testing and don’t be tempted to over-tighten and possibly damage parts.  The final setting will need to be fine-tuned in the car, and we’ll go into more depth in the next installment of our DEX210 ball diff build guide. Look out for Part 2 of this build guide, coming soon.


October 28, 2011


Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , — Stuart @ 1:52 pm

The DEX210 has a vast range of setup options and among these is the adjustable caster.  Using the two provided inserts in the kit you can choose between 15°, 20°, 30° &  35°.  Right in the middle of that range is 25° –  which matches the actual kick-up angle of the chassis.  There’s currently no 0° (Zero degree) insert supplied in the kit to achieve this mid-range 25° setting but it’s still possible to achieve with a little modification.


insertscompared The rear toe-in inserts are the same dimensions as the front caster inserts, only longer – and using the 0° rear toe-in inserts cut down, you can get a perfect 25° setting.

Right: Rear Hub toe-in insert compared to front caster insert.

You’ll need a spare set of 0° rear toe-in inserts, if you’re using the ones in your kit already you’ll need the following parts for the 25° caster modification:

Part No: TD330340 “HUB & KNUCKLE INSERT SET” – which includes all the inserts from the DEX210 along with the 0° rear toe-in inserts you’ll need.

To achieve the setting it’s best to place the insert into a hub carrier so one side is flush with the hub and carefully mark the excess which protrudes.  You can always take more off but you can’t put it back on – so remove the now marked up insert from the hub and cut off the excess with a sharp knife.  Keep test-fitting the insert until you’ve got close to matching the sides, finishing off the job with some fine sand paper or similar to get a perfect fit.

Safety – make sure to take great care when trimming the inserts when using sharp cutting tools.

insertinhub Placing the insert into the front hub carrier and resting it so the insert is flush on one side – you can see how much material needs removing. markinginsert Carfully mark around the exposed insert so you’ll know how much to cut off.
cuttinginsert Cut the insert close to the line you marked out – making sure there’s still room to remove more. roughcutinsert As you can see – still a little work to do – but you can always remove more.
triminsert Using a sharp knife trim the excess and finish with some sand paper or a file – keep testing the fit to ensure its perfect. trimmedinhub Almost done – this insert is cut and shaped to the right size and just needs cleaning up.
sidebyside_0 Here’s our new 0° insert alongside a regular caster insert. insertinuse In use – 25° is now possible!

Now you’ll have a nice mid-range caster setting available!

October 27, 2011


Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , — Stuart @ 2:53 pm

The DEX210 has many setup options available from the moulded inserts included in the kit.  Rear toe-in along with front caster and axle-position settings can be adjusted by using different inserts or orienting them in different ways.  The manual isn’t in-depth with these settings and understanding them just by looking at numbers on the moulded insert doesn’t always give the clearest explanation, so this guide is to help explain the possible settings and how to achieve them.


The rear of the car has 3° of negative toe, or toe-in, as standard. This is set by the inner hinge pins and can’t be changed.  3° is widely regarded as a good base setting for off-road racing.150wideTTTThe DEX210 kit comes supplied with four different inserts which push into the rear hubs and change the outer hinge pin angle relative to the hub which will either point the hub further inward (more negative toe, or toe-in) or closer to parallel (less negative toe).  The inserts aren’t sided – meaning you can use them on either side of the car, though their settings need to be read properly.

The four inserts supplied in the kit give a range of adjustment from 1.5° toe-in to 4.5° of toe-in, in 0.5° steps.


The inserts need to be read relative to the side of the car you’re placing them on.  For the left side of the car, you’ll read the value of the ‘L’ designation as it faces upwards – or the top of the insert.  Whilst it doesn’t make a difference which way round the insert is pointing it’s easier to read and understand if you always orient the insert so the setting you’re using is facing toward the front of the car.


Bearing in mind the 3 degrees of toe-in on the car already, using the ‘L+1’  insert as shown below adds 1° of negative toe (toe-in) and will result in 4° overall of toe-in.  Flipping that same insert over you’ll see the setting ‘L-1’ designation can be used on the left of the car. When used in the same way, with the ‘L’ designation facing forward, the insert will now take away 1°of toe-in from the car to give a setting of 2° of overall toe-in.InsertExample

In the above example with the L+1 facing upwards the insert will ADD 1° of toe-in to the left of the car, or REDUCE toe-in by 1° on the right of the car.  The pin runs through the insert at different angles depending on which insert is being used – this is what changes the angle of the hub.


The example above shows how the hub is effected by the L+1 insert – the +1 adds 1° of toe-in. Flipping the inserts over gives the opposite effect, plus becomes minus and vice versa.


Running more toe-in on the rear of the car will provide more traction coming out of corners and help stabilise the rear and keep it tracking straight.  The down side is that it will also reduce steering and scrub speed on the straights.

Running less toe-in will be less stable and the rear of the car will feel less planted. The car will have more steering and be faster in a straight line.


The caster angle of the front hubs effects the straight line stability of the car and the way it reacts to different track conditions.150wideTTT

caster-insert1 caster-insert2

The chassis kick-up on the DEX210 (angle of the front of the chassis plate to which the steering is attached) is 25° and the hub insert either adds or subtracts caster from this default 25° angle.  Two inserts are provided and are similar in design to the rear toe-in inserts – so flipping them over gives an equal but opposite effect to the angle.  The inserts come in 5° and 10° angles so the possible caster angles are 15°, 20°, 30° &  35°.


The inserts need to be read properly to understand the settings you’ll get and it’s easiest to understand when the writing is upright as read from either side of the car. The setting with the arrow pointing toward the front of the car in this instance is the one you’ll be using. The example below shows all possible caster angles – shown in this example on the right-hand side of the car. caster-illustration2_1

Axle position is another great setup option on the DEX210 and using the three inserts provided you can go from an inline axle to 4mm trailing in 1mm increments.

The setting is read with the arrow pointing toward the front of the car as in the illustration below.


axlepositioninserts2The DEX210 as per kit set-up comes with the front axles in maximum trailing. This gives the front of the car the most feel and is the easiest to drive. The further forward you put the front axle to more aggressive the car becomes on initial turn in, this can help you to make the car ‘pivot’ more on entry to a corner when grip is low and steering is at a premium. When you move the axle forward in the block by use of the inserts, remember to move the 4 wishbone inserts which space the c-hub in the wishbone.

The Rule of thumb is however much trail you have you must have the same number of 1mm spacers behind the C-hub. 

The example above-right shows the spacers required for 3mm trailing – three 1mm spacers behind the hub carrier and one 1mm spacer in front.

June 3, 2011

410 Diff Seal mod

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , , , , , — Stuart @ 1:57 pm

ttt-410-diffseals-oily The 410 family of vehicles have used the same X-ring diff seals since launch and some users have had less success than others with them.

The washers (TD709001) that sit next to the X-rings and behind the E-clip were updated to a slightly thicker item as a running change to help minimise outdrive movement and keep things nicely sealed but still some users have experienced a slow leak of the diff oils.  The older TD709001 washers were black and the updated items are silver – so you can check to see which you have.

Some of our team drivers have tried other seals to find the best possible performance and some of our drivers have been using DNX408 shock o-ring seals (Part No.TD330099) in the DEX410 differentials for months without problems of leaking.

ttt-410-diffseals-standard Standard X-ring seal ttt-410-diffseals-compared The DNX408 (TD330099) shock seal vs the standard X-ring

The Shock o-rings are smaller than the X-rings but once assembled into the differentials they fill the gaps and seal well. Oil the recess where the o-ring will sit and place the 0-ring in position.

ttt-410-diffseals-assemble1 Lube the recess where the o-ring will sit

ttt-410-diffseals-assemble2 Grease or oil the input shaft

ttt-410-diffseals-assemble4 ttt-410-diffseals-assemble5

If you insert the outdrive / input shaft into position now you’ll probably dislodge the o-ring and getting it fully seated with the outdrive shaft in place can be tricky – you can use the box spanner from the kit, to press down the o-ring whilst the input shaft is in place.

ttt-410-diffseals-install_0 You can use the box driver from the kit to push the o-ring down whilst inserting the outdrive ttt-410-diffseals-oringinstalled2 Done!  –  now for the other side

Reinstall the washer and e-clip and after you’d done both o-rings just follow the rest of the regular differential build – the guides below have some useful tips that relate to building the differentials as well as the gearbox housings.

Items you’ll need for the modification are one pack of TD330099 DNX408 SHOCK SEAL O-RING  – which contains enough to do four differentials.


You can read some useful differential build information in the DESC410R centre diff article here:
DESC410R Centre Diff Option

Information on tightening the differential case properly to ensure it’s sealed well can be found in the Gearbox Build Guide here:
DESC410R/DEX410 Gearbox Pro-Build

April 29, 2011

1/10th scale BIG BORE spring charts

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , , — Stuart @ 4:31 pm

TEAMDURANGO-star180The new big bore dampers for the DEX410, DEX410R and DESC410R are now available in the shops and alongside the shocks we’ve released a range of springs suited to the new larger diameter dampers.

The springs are available in sets for front, hard front and rear. The aptly-named ‘hard front’ spring set is as the name would suggest a harder range of springs than the normal front, and they carry on from that set with 8 new progressively harder spring options.  These ‘hard’ front springs are more suited to the heavier DESC410R for which they were designed – though there’s no reason you can’t fit them to the front of the smaller & lighter buggies, it just wouldn’t be suitable in most conditions.

BigBoreSpringChart-smallBig Bore Spring Chart – Mini Version (PDF)

With so many springs available we’ve created a couple of charts to help racers understand the options – a small chart with just the spring colours and weights, and a more comprehensive version with all the data you’d possibly need.

BigBoreSpringChart-largeBig Bore Spring Chart – Full Version (PDF)

Spring kit part numbers: (all springs are available in pairs also)

#TD230027 – BIG BORE SPRING SET: 45mm LENGTH (8 Pairs)

#TD230028 – BIG BORE SPRING SET: 65mm LENGTH (8 Pairs)

#TD230029 – BIG BORE SPRING SET: HARD 45mm LENGTH (8 Pairs)

Your local Team Durango distributor
T: 217-398-3630
F: 217-398-1104
Great Planes Model Distributors
1608 Interstate Drive
IL 61822, USA