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January 23, 2012

DEX410v3 – RR Anti-Squat settings

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , — Stuart @ 1:29 pm

The DEX410V3 came equiped with a new design of RR suspension hanger on the back of the buggy.

The new hanger #TD330307 uses moulded inserts #TD330309 to change anti-squat settings, rather than switching the whole hanger.  This means there’s less expensive parts for the racer to purchase and more settings possible.


Squat is the tendancy of the car to lean back under acceleration – the nose comes up and the rear of the car sits down lower. Anti-Squat as the name suggests is designed to reduce the squatting effect and is achieved by angling the rear suspension arms so the front of the pivot point is higher than the rear.


The further you ‘lean’ the suspension arms back, the more effective anti-squat you’ll get. Unlike the front of the car which could have quite a lot of angle to the suspension, the rear needs far less angle to operate properly and due to the small angles involved  it’s sometimes hard to really see the changes on the bench.  antisquat-angle


The RR hanger from the DEX410V3 uses plastic inserts to off-set the pivot point of the hinge pin. Three different offset inserts are provided in the kit and off-set by different ammounts.

rrbrace-inserts2 rrbrace-inserts3

rrbrace-pinlocation Above: The ‘3’ insert the correct way up inside the RR hanger. This gives the most anti-squat possible – you can see the hole for the pivot ball is offset to the bottom of the insert.

With the RF hanger in -2 ‘Low Roll Centre’ configuration, these inserts used on the RR hanger give 1, 2 and 3 degrees of anti-squat, when the inserts are the correct way round with the number the correct orientation. Running the insers upside down it’s possible to gain extra setup options.

Note: In low roll centre setup, the ‘3’ insert used upside-down actually gives 0.5 degrees of pro-squat.


Using the ‘High Roll Centre’ setup with the RF hanger in +2, the settings are not quite as easy to understand since the 1-2-3 inserts don’t give settings that match the number shown. The chart below shows the actual settings using the inserts in both orientations when using the high roll centre.


The anti-squat settings for both high and low roll centres are shown below – or print the PDF version out for pit box by downloading it HERE


Anti Squat:
Anti Squat helps to keep the mass transfer of  the car in balance under loading. In general, the more anti squat you run on a car, the more it stiffens up the suspension on loading (On Power). This stiffening reduces the energy lost in the suspension as the mass is transferred, which gives more forward traction on power and increases the level of grip under power.

Over bumps, this stiffening has a slight negative effect, in that it makes the car a little worse (for the same oil/piston setup) over bumps.  It is worth keeping this in mind, as there is a compromise.

In Summary:

Increasing Anti Squat

  1. Increases ‘On Power’ rear traction.
  2. Reduces ‘Off Power’ rear traction (Which can help to make the car ‘pivot’)

Decreasing Anti Squat has the opposite effects.

Roll Centre:


Using the -2 block will lower the roll centre height making the car ‘roll’ more at the rear end, which can help to generate grip on low traction surfaces and will make the car change direction slower than in the +2 position.

When changing to the +2 block, remember to re check your droop setting as it will have changed from the block being in the -2 position.

November 29, 2011

Turnbuckle Build Guide


Having links pop-off during a heavy crash on the race track is frustrating but understandable – having them pop-off during adjustments however is possibly even more frustrating but it’s something you can prevent.  This guide is to help users build their turnbuckles to minimize the chances of them popping off during adjustments.

unpopped-adjustments Adjust settings without taking the link off

The steering and camber link ball cups on all 10th scale Team Durango vehicles have holes to allow adjustments without popping-off the link and it’s good practice to always use this method when making adjustments.

Every time you pop-off a link it gets a little looser and easier to pop-off next time – which could be during a crash or when making adjustments.  A 2.5mm hex driver can be simply poked through the ball cup to unwind the ball stud and reposition it in the desired location or to add/remove shims.

DEX210 front camber link: front210turnbucklescompared

locking-the-link The reason the links can pop-off during adjustment is due to the turnbuckle having too much friction inside the ball cup.

Left: Locking the link with hex tools will stop it popping off when adjusting.

A quick fix to stop the links popping off during adjustment is to put 2.5mm allen keys / hex drivers in each end of the link – locking the link and stopping it turning and popping off.  This works well for really tight links but isn’t a real long-term solution.

assemblelink To make adjustments easier first grease the threads of the turnbuckle – and then wind it fully in and out of the ball cup a couple of times to free things up. You want the grease the inside of the ball cup where the threads are – so make sure the grease gets inside and isn’t simply wiped-off when assembling the link.

Right: Thread the turnbuckle in and out a couple of times to help future adjustments.

An easy way to build the links is using a 3mm driver shaft placed through the ball cup to hold it in place whilst you turn the turnbuckle (or turn the ball cup whilst holding the turnbuckle). Don’t use anything with a smaller diameter as it might deform the ball cup.  The combination of the greased threads and running the turnbuckle in and out of the ball cup should make future adjustments a lot easier.

geasethreads A small dab of grease on the turnbuckle pre-ream Threaded all the way in

Using the DEX210 as an example – both the front camber and steering links are built with 1 or 2mm of un-threaded turnbuckle inside the ball cup, depending on setup – this makes adjustments hard even with the aforementioned preparation.  On the shortest possible front camber link setting, there’s a substantial length of un-threaded turnbuckle going into the ball cup, making adjustment less easy.

open-rodend The standard HD ball cup has no real accommodation for the un-threaded part of the turnbuckle reaming You can use a reamer to open up the ball cup a little

When building the links you can open them up slightly with a reamer to accommodate the slightly wider un-threaded part of the turnbuckle.  Don’t take out too much – you just want to make it less restrictive around the opening, which shouldn’t have any real impact on the hold of the threads which will be further inside than the reamer will travel.

reamed2 You don’t need to take out lots of material reamed Standard ‘HD’ ball cup left and reamed-out ball cup right.

Something often overlooked is having each end of the link centred so it’s free to move smoothly during normal operation.  If you adjust the links off the car and attach them, chances are the link will be mis-aligned.

Building the links in this way, using grease and winding the settings in and out – along with opening up the end of the ball cup slightly – will help reduce the chance of the link becoming stiff enough that it’ll twist off when adjusting.

LinkTurnAbove: The links should have plenty of room to move smoothly if aligned properly.

Keeping things together and resisting the temptation to simply ‘pop’ off the links when adjusting / maintaining the car will prolong their life and reduce the chances of them coming off in a crash.

June 3, 2011

410 Diff Seal mod

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , , , , , — Stuart @ 1:57 pm

ttt-410-diffseals-oily The 410 family of vehicles have used the same X-ring diff seals since launch and some users have had less success than others with them.

The washers (TD709001) that sit next to the X-rings and behind the E-clip were updated to a slightly thicker item as a running change to help minimise outdrive movement and keep things nicely sealed but still some users have experienced a slow leak of the diff oils.  The older TD709001 washers were black and the updated items are silver – so you can check to see which you have.

Some of our team drivers have tried other seals to find the best possible performance and some of our drivers have been using DNX408 shock o-ring seals (Part No.TD330099) in the DEX410 differentials for months without problems of leaking.

ttt-410-diffseals-standard Standard X-ring seal ttt-410-diffseals-compared The DNX408 (TD330099) shock seal vs the standard X-ring

The Shock o-rings are smaller than the X-rings but once assembled into the differentials they fill the gaps and seal well. Oil the recess where the o-ring will sit and place the 0-ring in position.

ttt-410-diffseals-assemble1 Lube the recess where the o-ring will sit

ttt-410-diffseals-assemble2 Grease or oil the input shaft

ttt-410-diffseals-assemble4 ttt-410-diffseals-assemble5

If you insert the outdrive / input shaft into position now you’ll probably dislodge the o-ring and getting it fully seated with the outdrive shaft in place can be tricky – you can use the box spanner from the kit, to press down the o-ring whilst the input shaft is in place.

ttt-410-diffseals-install_0 You can use the box driver from the kit to push the o-ring down whilst inserting the outdrive ttt-410-diffseals-oringinstalled2 Done!  –  now for the other side

Reinstall the washer and e-clip and after you’d done both o-rings just follow the rest of the regular differential build – the guides below have some useful tips that relate to building the differentials as well as the gearbox housings.

Items you’ll need for the modification are one pack of TD330099 DNX408 SHOCK SEAL O-RING  – which contains enough to do four differentials.


You can read some useful differential build information in the DESC410R centre diff article here:
DESC410R Centre Diff Option

Information on tightening the differential case properly to ensure it’s sealed well can be found in the Gearbox Build Guide here:
DESC410R/DEX410 Gearbox Pro-Build

DESC410R 2mm Anti-Roll Bar set screw mod

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , , , , — Stuart @ 10:42 am

TTT-410-rollbargrubscrew-1The 2mm anti-roll bar is the hardest anti-roll bar option part for the DEX410/R and DESC410R line of vehicles and whilst it was for the most part too hard for the DEX410 buggies it’s an ideal roll bar on the new DESC410R short course truck.

The 2mm bar fills the hole in the alloy anti-roll bar pivot ball (TD330015) and like the smaller bars it’s held in place by a single set screw.

The design of the M3 set screw has a small ‘cone’ shape at the leading edge and on the smaller anti-roll bars this isn’t a problem since the set screw sits deep inside – using the 2mm anti-roll bar however means that this ‘cone’ sits out into the threads so there’s a little less thread for the screw to hold onto whilst tightening. It’s quite easy to overtighten and strip the threads in the anti-roll bar balls when using the 2mm roll bar and standard set screws.


To get the set screw to have the maximum hold, you can remove the cone by grinding the leading face of the screw so it’s flat – this will allow the set screw to sit further into the alloy ball with more threads engaging.

Above & Below – the ‘flattened’ face set screw allows the threads to contact lower down giving a better hold.


You can use a dremel-style tool with a grinding head to quickly flatten the set screw whilst it’s perched atop an allen key / hex driver.

ttt-410-rollbargrubscrew-ground2 ttt-410-rollbargrubscrew-ground

You still need to use care when tightening the modified set screw and use threadlock to prevent it coming loose – but using this mod should help prevent premature failure when assembling / maintenance.

April 29, 2011

1/10th scale BIG BORE spring charts

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , , — Stuart @ 4:31 pm

TEAMDURANGO-star180The new big bore dampers for the DEX410, DEX410R and DESC410R are now available in the shops and alongside the shocks we’ve released a range of springs suited to the new larger diameter dampers.

The springs are available in sets for front, hard front and rear. The aptly-named ‘hard front’ spring set is as the name would suggest a harder range of springs than the normal front, and they carry on from that set with 8 new progressively harder spring options.  These ‘hard’ front springs are more suited to the heavier DESC410R for which they were designed – though there’s no reason you can’t fit them to the front of the smaller & lighter buggies, it just wouldn’t be suitable in most conditions.

BigBoreSpringChart-smallBig Bore Spring Chart – Mini Version (PDF)

With so many springs available we’ve created a couple of charts to help racers understand the options – a small chart with just the spring colours and weights, and a more comprehensive version with all the data you’d possibly need.

BigBoreSpringChart-largeBig Bore Spring Chart – Full Version (PDF)

Spring kit part numbers: (all springs are available in pairs also)

#TD230027 – BIG BORE SPRING SET: 45mm LENGTH (8 Pairs)

#TD230028 – BIG BORE SPRING SET: 65mm LENGTH (8 Pairs)

#TD230029 – BIG BORE SPRING SET: HARD 45mm LENGTH (8 Pairs)

March 9, 2011

DESC410R/DEX410 Gearbox Pro-Build.

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: , — Stuart @ 5:10 pm

DEX410 / DESC410R Gearbox Build Guide

gearboxtip-01 Getting the gearboxes built correctly on the DESC410R/DEX410 vehicles is critical for long-life and handling the rigors of racing.  The metal gears are strong but nothing can cope with the combination of a poory built drivetrain, extreme power and on-track abuse.  So please take a look at this guide to help protect your drivetrain and keep you on the race track.

With the differential built and filled with oil, attach the crown gear half of the differential and fasten the screws down in a cross fashion.  Back off all the screws a turn or two before repeating the cross pattern tightening again – this is to ensure the crown gear is sat fully in place and aligned correctly.

gearboxtip-crowngear-02 Tighten the gears in a cross pattern. gearboxtip-crowngear-01 After the crown gear is attached – loosen the screws a little and tighten cross-pattern again.


Shimming the differential correctly is an important step and this is the next stage of building the perfect gearbox. The DESC410R/DEX410 come with two types of shim for this purpose, a 0.2mm which is silver in colour and a 0.1mm copper-coloured shim.Firstly you need to know how many shims will get the diff sitting correctly so press down the bearing on the moulded diff-body side so it’s fully in place as we’ll use the crown gear side of the diff to play with shim settings – this is purely because it’s much easier to remove / replace the bearings on this side whilst we find the perfect setting.

Start with one 0.2mm silver shim on the crown gear side and slide the bearing over the top.  Place the diff with shims and bearings installed into the empty differential case and clamp the case tight between your fingers.  Next you need to clamp the outdrives with your other hand, squeezing them inward whilst trying to ‘rock’ the diff side to side in the case.

410diffshimtip02 One silver shim in position. 410diffshimtip01 Test the end-float in the case by trying to shift the diff sideways.
If you can feel a slight movement then you can maybe add a 0.1mm copper coloured shim to the same side, next to the previously installed shim and try again.  If on the other hand your diff is hard to install or feels to be binding then  you can remove / add to find your perfect balance.  The shimming in this guide is for the parts we used – your shimming could be different so be aware.
410diffshimtip04 One silver shim wasn’t enough in this case, so I’ve added a second copper shim. 410diffshimtip03 Silver and copper shims together were the right setting – now it’s time to position them.

410diffshimtip06 Once you’ve found the setting that feels right you need to test against the input pinion gear – this will define where you need to place the shims you’ve just decided upon. Place the input shaft / pinion gear into the gearbox housing along with the diff you’ve just shimmed correctly and clamp the case halves together with the provided screws and spin the input shaft.  With all shims on the crown-gear side (where you should have been test-fitting them) you might find the gears are loud and have excess friction – so next comes choosing which side you place your shims.

You want the crown gear as close to the pinion gear as you can to get a good mesh – but you don’t want it so close that the gearbox is notchy or excessively loud. With the example differential in the photos needing one of each shim, you could leave the 0.2mm silver shim on the crown gear side and place the smaller copper-coloured 0.1mm shim behind the bearing on the opposite side.  This will shift the diff over by 0.1mm and effectively seperate the crown gear and pinion by the same amount.   Re-assemble the gearbox and test as before to check how smooth the gears are – a slight roughness  to the action is fine but if there’s still excessive noise and friction you can continue adjusting the shims to suit.

DiffShimmedAbove:  In the example above, the perfect setting  ended up with one silver shim on the Crown-gear side and one copper shim on the moulded side.

inputshaftWith the differential shimming complete the last point to look at when building your DESC410R/DEX410 is the input shaft itself.  Simply tightening the CVD-shaft onto the input shaft and placing it into the gearbox housing could result in some degree of  movement.  You can check this by clamping the gearbox together very tightly with your fingers or screwing the halves together – then with the unassembled CVD attached to the input shaft, try to rock the shaft vertically up and down (see photo).  The movement, if any, will be slight – but this is amplified inside the gearbox and will result in the teeth of the gears having an improper contact patch which will place excess strain on the gears.
gearboxtip-03 Input shaft with bearings in place. gearboxtip-06 Tighten the grub screw whilst applying pressure to squeeze the two halves together.

To get the perfect setting and eliminate any play in this vital area you need to loosely join the CVD shaft to the input-shaft and place them into one half of the gearbox housing.  Clamp the two metal parts together so you’re pushing the CVD and input shaft together and squeezing the bearings against the plastic divider.  Carefully tighten the grub screw on the CVD part of the assembly whilst applying the pressure and test the input shaft for movement again.

gearboxtip-04 Tighten the gearbox screws TIGHT to help clamp the bearings. gearboxtip-05 With an improper setting the input shaft will be able to rock up  & down slightly – it’s hard to detect with the full driveshaft in place.

TeamTechTipsLogo-3Adjusting the amount of pressure applied during tightening will vary the setting  – when you get it right the shaft should be firmly set and free from any play. If you apply too much pressure you might find the bearings binding slightly, so try again.  The perfect setting should see minimal binding of the bearings but a totally rock-steady shaft.

Your gearbox should now be ready for the track – time to build the other one the same!

August 3, 2010

Anti-Roll Bar Installation

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: — Team Durango @ 3:25 pm


Anti-roll bars are included in the DEX410 and DEX410 2010 Spec kit. Now available from Team Durango are anti-roll bar sets for the DEX410R. These are part numbers:-

TD230012 – Rear Anti-Roll Bar Set

TD230013 – Front Anti-Roll Bar Set

Anti-roll bars are a useful tuning option. They allow you to add stiffness in roll without effecting the stiffness of the shocks over large bumps and jumps where the wheels at the front or rear of the buggy move up and down together. They work by transferring the load from the heavily loaded outer suspension to the lightly loaded inner suspension during cornering. This reduces the roll angle so the buggy corners flatter. In general anti-roll bars are used on smoother, higher grip tracks as they may not work so well on really bumpy or rutted tracks.

A front roll bar will decrease the steering of the buggy, and will make the buggy smoother and more consistent through a turn. It will stop the front end digging-in.

A rear roll bar will increase the rotation of the buggy in the middle of a corner and will help the buggy square-up faster coming out of a turn.

It is important when installing your anti-roll bar to make sure that all the components can move freely with no binding, with the minimum of play.

Here we show you how we recommend installing the TD230012 Anti-Roll Bar Set to the rear of the DEX410R. Fitting the front roll bar is a very similar process, but requires the removal of the front diff cover as this is used to hold the front roll bar in place.

The TD230012 set includes all the metal parts you require.

2010_07_30_Anti Roll Bar Tutorial Pic1

The TD230012 set includes all the metal parts you require

The plastic parts needed are included with your DEX410R kit. The holders for the roll bars are part of TD330003 parts tree. The rod ends are included on the parts tree TD330001.

2010_07_30_Anti Roll Bar Tutorial Pic2

The plastic parts are included in your kit

The first step is to build the links for the roll bar. You need to build two of these. The gap between the rod ends should be 18mm. It is important to make sure both the rod ends have the same gap so the roll bar works evenly on left and right hand corners.

2010_07_30_Anti Roll Bar Tutorial Pic3

Ensure both roll bar links are built to the same length

Now place the pivot balls into one rod end of each of your roll bar links. The pivot balls should pop into place and move freely inside the rod end.

The next part of the process is to put the anti-roll bar pivot balls onto the roll bar. Place thread lock onto the M3x3mm screw and partially screw it into the anti-roll bar pivot ball. Now push the roll bar into the hole in the pivot ball so that the roll bar comes flush with the end of the pivot ball. The set screw should be positioned so that the it is angled slightly upwards when the roll bar is placed flat on the desk. Now repeat this process for the second anti-roll bar pivot ball. It is important for equal roll bar action left and right to ensure that the set screws are both at the same angle as the pivot balls sit off-set on the roll bar.

2010_07_30_Anti Roll Bar Tutorial Pic4

Make sure the set screws in the anti-roll bar pivot balls sit at the same angle to the roll bar as each other

Now it is time to attach the roll bar to the buggy. The first step is to remove the wheels and the shocks from the buggy. Now place the roll bar onto the buggy and secure with the roll bar holders. The roll bar holders are held in place by the 2 M3x6mm button head screws included in the anti-roll bar set.

2010_07_30_Anti Roll Bar Tutorial Pic5

Attach the roll bar to the bulkhead of the buggy

When you have installed the roll bar holders you need to fit the M3x4 set screws into the roll bar holders. These set screws are there to reduce the free play in the assembly fixing the roll bar to the buggy. Set screws are used as they allow for adjustment for different thickness roll bars. When screwing in the set screw you need to ensure that it is not too tight so that it stops the roll bar dropping under it’s own weight. You should screw one of the set screws in first until you feel the set screw touch the roll bar. At this point you may need to unscrew the set screw a small amount so that the roll bar will drop under it’s own weight. Repeat this process with the set screw in the other roll bar holder.

2010_07_30_Anti Roll Bar Tutorial Pic6

Tighten the set screws to remove free play in the roll bar

Now it is time to fit the roll bar links that were assembled earlier to the buggy. These are attached to the wishbone by a M3x8mm button head screw. The screw passes through the wishbone and then screws into the pivot ball. It is a good idea to use thread lock on this screw.You can hold the pivot ball with some needle nose pliers when you are tightening up the pivot ball.

2010_07_30_Anti Roll Bar Tutorial Pic7

Attach the roll bar link to the wishbone

When you have attached the roll bar link to the wishbone you should attach the other end to the anti-roll bar pivot ball. Make sure that the assembly moves freely at this stage. You can rotate the plastic parts of the roll bar links now so that they sit square with the pivot balls. Repleat this process with the other side.

2010_07_30_Anti Roll Bar Tutorial Pic8

Now the assembly is fitted it is time to check the action is equal

If the assembly all moves freely then it is time to check that the anti-roll bar has a equal effect on both sides of the suspension. This can be done by lifting one side slowly and checking at what point the other side starts to lift up.

2010_07_30_Anti Roll Bar Tutorial Pic9

Lift one side and see at what point the other side moves. You want the effect to be the same on both the left and right hand sides of the suspension

If you find that when you lift one side it has more of an effect than the other side then you need to adjust the length of the roll bar links to equal out the roll bar effect left-to-right.

For example if you find that when you lift the right hand suspension arm the left hand suspension arm moves sooner than the right hand suspension arm moves when you lift the left hand suspension arm then you should slightly shorten the length of the right hand roll bar link. Shorten this in small steps, checking on the effect of the adjustment until the suspension arms lift equally on the left and right hand side of the buggy.

There are a couple of tuning options with roll bars. For fine adjusment of the roll bar stiffness you can move the anti-roll bar pivot ball on the roll bar. Moving the anti-roll bar pivot ball towards the end of the roll bar will have the effect of softening the action of the anti-roll bar.

For a bigger adjustment we offer different thickness roll bars. A thicker roll bar has a greater effect than a thinner roll bar as it will transfer more of the force from one side of the suspension to the other. The roll bar sets come with 1.5mm thick roll bars, we also offer roll bars in 1.3mm and 2.0mm thicknesses for both front and rear. Here are the part numbers for our anti-roll bars.

TD330047 – ANTI ROLL BAR FRONT 1.3mm

TD330048 – ANTI ROLL BAR FRONT 1.5mm

TD330049 – ANTI ROLL BAR REAR 1.3mm

TD330050 – ANTI ROLL BAR REAR 1.5mm

TD330051 – ANTI ROLL BAR FRONT 2.0mm

TD330052 – ANTI ROLL BAR REAR 2.0mm

July 29, 2010

Shock build guide

Filed under: News,Tricks and Tips — Tags: — Team Durango @ 4:14 pm


In this guide we show you how to build the Team Durango shocks that feature on both the DEX410 and the DEX410R models. These shocks are available seperately as part numbers TD230010 – 1/10 Electric Shock Absorber Set: Front and TD230011 – 1/10 Electric Shock Absorber Set: Rear.

A well built set of shocks will ensure consistent handling and reliable performance. Here we show you how we recommend building your shocks to ensure consistency and repeatability when buiding your shocks.

Assemble the piston on the shock shaft. The first step is to place the small washer on to the shaft.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic1

Place the small washer onto the shock shaft

Then place the piston on the shaft making sure the piston is the correct way up. Now put the screw in to hold the piston in place. We recommend using thread lock on this screw to ensure it does not come loose in use. If using Team Durango red thread lock you only need a small amount, if you use too much the screw may be difficult to remove.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic2

Use a small amount of thread lock on the screw to hold the piston in place

The piston you need to choose will depend on the surface you are running on. Please check the set ups in our set ups section on our website here for good starting points for which pistons and oils you will need.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic3

The assembled shock shaft and piston

Now assemble the shock seals inside the shock bodies. We recommend lubricating these parts with shock oil as you assemble them. You need the thin black plastic spacer first, making sure that the flat surface will face the o-ring.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic4

Make sure the flat face of the first plastic spacer is facing up to where the o-ring will sit

Then place an o-ring, the thick black plastic spacer, another o-ring and finally the wide black plastic spacer. The flat face of the wide spacer needs to be facing the o-ring. When the parts are in place screw on the shock seal cap.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic5

The assembled shock body

Now you can put the shock shaft in place. You must take care when doing this so that you don’t damage the o-rings. Some set ups require internal limiters to be placed in the shocks. If you intend to run limiters inside the shocks then you need to put these onto the shock shaft now before you push the shock shaft into place. Having placed any limiters onto the shock shaft you should now place a few drops of shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft and then carefully push the shock shaft through the shock seals.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic6

A small amount of shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft will protect the o-rings

Now put in place the shock cap o-ring. It is easier to do this now than when the shock is full of oil.

Now you are ready to fill up the shocks with oil. Fill the shock bodies so that the oil is level with the top of the shock body. Then slowly move the piston up and down to allow air bubbles to escape from behind the piston. Stand the shocks up for a while to allow any more air bubbles to escape.

When all the air bubbles have escaped from the shock you may be required to top up the oil. The oil should be level with the top of the shock when the piston is at the bottom of the shock.

Now with the shock fully extended you need to screw on the shock cap.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic7

The assembled shock is now ready to be bled

With the shock cap in place you need to bleed the shock. This process removed excess oil so that the shock piston can move all the way inside the shock body without becoming hydraulically locked. During this process you can tune the rebound of the shock. Here we give a good starting point that will work well in most situations.

Place 4mm of spacers over the shock shaft and push the shock shaft into the shock body until there is 4mm between the bottom of the shock body and the top of the chamfer where the shock shaft starts to reduce in diameter.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic8

With 4mm of spacers you can see where to push the shock shaft to

Wipe off any excess oil that has come out of the bleed screw hole and screw in the bleed screw into the shock cap.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic9

Now fit the bleed screw

Now you need to fit the shock rod end to your shocks. To do this you need to hold the shock shaft without marking its surface. This can be done by holding the shock shaft with non-serrated pliers with a piece of paper in between the shock shaft and the pliers.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic10

Hold the shaft with non-serrated pliers so you don’t mark it

When you have hold of the shock shaft you need to screw the rod end into place. At this point you need to set the length of the shock. One method of measuring the length of the shock is to measure the gap between the shock seal cap and the top of the shock rod end, this is a very accurate way to measure your shocks to ensure that you have equal shock lengths on both sides of your car.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic11

You can measure the shock lenght like this

Please see the set up sheets on the Team Durango website for recommended shock lengths.

When you have done this you can screw on the shock nut. This has an o-ring inside of it to stop it from adjusting by itself. Push the o-ring into the groove and screw the shock nut onto the shock body. We recommend screwing this all the way to the top of the threads, then mark the nut inline with the hole in the shock cap. Then you will be able to count the number of turns of the shock nut accurately when making adjustments to your ride height.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic12

Mark the shock nut so you can make set up changes quickly and easily

With the shock nut in place you can put the spring on to the shock and then the spring retainer.

2010_07_29_Shock Build Tutorial Pic13

Ready for installation on your car

Now all that needs to be done is to push the pivot balls into the shock cap and the shock rod end and your shocks are ready for installation on to your car.

July 13, 2010

25mm Lipo in DEX410

Filed under: Tricks and Tips — Tags: — Team Durango @ 8:03 am


The DEX410 was originally designed around lipo packs that were 23.5mm tall. This was the maximum height for a legal lipo battery at the time.

Since then there has been a change in the regulations, increasing this maximum height dimension to allow lipos of up to 25mm to be used for racing.

When developing the DEX410R model this change in battery regulations was taken into account and existing parts were revised to allow the fitment of 25mm high lipo packs.

Here we show you what parts are required to fit 25mm high lipos in the original DEX410.

Parts Required:-





The centreline transmission on the DEX410 runs quite close to the battery pack. To use a taller battery the centreline transmission needs to be raised slightly.

Raising the slipper clutch assembly:-

To do this there is a new motor mount and mid drive gear plate that raises the slipper assembly, these are part numbers TD310155 and TD310156.

2010_07_12_Motor Plate new vs

New motor plate (TD310156) on the left mounts the slipper assembly in a higher position then the original motor plate (TD310009) on the right

2010_07_12_Mid Plate new vs

New mid gear plate (TD310155) on the left mounts the slipper assembly in a higher position then the original mid gear plate (TD310008) on the right

Increasing the angle of the rear gearbox:-

Raising the slipper assembly will give clearance for the battery pack in the middle of the car. It is also necessary to raise the angle of the gearbox to give clearance for the battery back along the length of the driveshaft. To do this we have updated the gearbox holder on TD310039 gear box set. This now holds the rear gear box at a slightly higher angle, giving the driveshaft more clearance over the battery pack.

2010_07_12_rear gearbox mount

New gearbox holder on the left holds the rear gearbox at a greater angle than the old gearbox holder

With these parts fitted there is now clearance under the centre driveshaft for 25mm lipo battery packs.

Fitting the lipo battery holder:-

There are two heights at which the lipo battery holder can be mounted. The lower one is for 23.5mm high lipo battery packs and the higher for 25mm high lipo battery packs.

At the hinge end the gearbox holder now has two holes. Use the upper hole for 25mm lipo battery packs.

2010_07_12_rear gearbox mount new

New gearbox holder has two positions for mounting the battery strap

We have modified the lipo battery holder, part TD320005, so that the parts tree now includes spacers to raise the front mount for the strap in the middle of the car. When using 25mm lipo batteries these spacers go in-between the front mount for the battery strap and the chassis, slightly longer screws will be required due to the thickness of the spacers.


The two spacers included in TD320005 are for spacing up the front battery mount when using 25mm lipo batteries

With the spacers under the front battery mount and the battery strap fitted in the upper of the two positions for the hinge end you know have a secure fitting for your 25mm high lipo battery.

June 4, 2010

Setting up your Servo Saver

Filed under: Tricks and Tips — Tags: — Team Durango UK @ 9:38 am

Setting up your Servo Saver correctly can help you reduce your lap times and protect your servo gears during crashes.

Step 1.

With your Servo Saver partially assembled as on page 29 of the DEX410 manual apply Thread lock (TD39006) to the top few threads of the Servo Saver Shaft (TD713001)


Step 2.

Screw on the Servo Saver Nut (TD708001) and screw down until the nut is 1.4mm below the end of the Servo Saver Shaft (TD713001).

Nut depth

With the nut at this setting it should be just possible to move the arms together in a ‘squeezing’ motion with your fingers.

This setting is only a guide to give you a good starting point for your kit.

Remember that the threadlock will take at least 1 hour to start to set, so ideally your servo saver should be set before you attend a race meeting. Once the threadlock has set, finer adjustments can be made at the meeting.

If your car seems to wander about from left to right and does not hold the trim setting on your transmitter very well, your servo saver may be too loose. Your car may also feel like it has not enough steering in tight and high speed corners. If your car has either of these symptoms, check your servo saver.

If your servo saver is too tight you may risk damaging your servo saver and your servo.

Once you are happy with your setting, measure the distance in step 2 and note it down in your manual. Then when you rebuild your kit you will know the correct setting for your servo and car.

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Your local Team Durango distributor
T: 217-398-3630
F: 217-398-1104
Great Planes Model Distributors
1608 Interstate Drive
IL 61822, USA