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DNX408 Throttle Linkages

Setting up the throttle and brake linkages is a very important step when building the DNX408.

The following article will guide you, step-by-step, to ensure you have the throttle linkages set correctly. This will allow you to get the most driveability from your DNX408, with the least strain on your servos.

The first thing you need to do is ensure that your engine is installed correctly and correctly meshed. Any movement that you need to make with your engine will require you to re-set the linkage from the carb to the throttle pivot.

With your engine set in place you should aim to set the carb to open as shown in the pictures below:
carb-closed
carb-half
carb-open
The throttle swivel should be set so that when your carb is 50% open the throttle swivel is at 90 degrees as shown above (middle picture). Fully closed and fully open carbs should also be easily achieved without the swivel turning too far.

Have your radio equipment turned on and sub-trims set to 0. Fit the servo horn onto your servo as near vertical as possible; once fitted, use your sub-trim to move the throttle servo position to exactly vertical. Servo reverse should be set so that when you apply throttle on your radio the throttle servo will move the servo arm towards the front of the car.

Attach the linkage between the servo horn and the throttle swivel as shown below:
throttle-link-side
Adjust the length of the linkage so that when the carb is fully closed, the flat side of the collar is tight-up against the pivot on the servo horn:
throttle-link-top
Adjust the EPA on your radio so that the carb opens fully and no further than that; any more travel will only result in straining your servo and you will not gain any extra performance.

With the throttle side of the linkages set, install the brake linkage. Adjust the length of this linkage so that the threaded end of the linkage near the servo horn isn’t too far away from the servo horn pivot:
brake-link-1-top
The length of fuel tube you put on here is often driver dependent; more fuel tube will have a more progressive feel to the brakes. Different brands of fuel tube also make a difference. With that in mind it’s important that you have the thread close enough to the servo horn pivot to tighten the loc-nut up enough to take away the dead-zone in the brakes. This can be done by threading the brake ball-joint more or less. The picture below shows a large dead-zone gap to the brakes being applied.

brake-link-side-gap
It is typically best to have your radio equipment switched on and the throttle in neutral position. Operate the brake directly on the brake arm by hand where the ball joint attaches and set a gap of around 1mm between the servo horn pivot and the brake washers/fueltube.

Set the EPA so that you don’t strain your servo on brakes, the fuel tubing should be crushed slightly.

The last thing to do is to fit your throttle return spring. With your brakes set, leave the throttle position in neutral and check to see if your throttle return spring is long enough for the length of rod exposed at the end. If it isn’t, gently stretch the spring so that in the neutral throttle position, there is some pre-load on the spring helping to keep the carb closed.

The last thing to check is that when the spring is fitted, and full brakes are applied, the throttle return spring doesn’t become coil-bound, causing excessive strain on the servo. If it does, remove the spring, gently stretch it and re-fit the spring with the loc-nut tightened-up less; again, check the pre-load on the spring to ensure that the carb closes when in neutral throttle position.

Below are pictures of the servo arm working in neutral, full throttle and full brake – make sure that the fuel tube is never crushed too much, neither is the throttle return spring coil-bound on full brakes.
complete-neutral
complete-throttle
complete-brakes

DNX408 Throttle Linkages
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Team Driver Build Diary – DEX8T – Leo Lorenzen
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Team Tech Tips – DEX210v2 Camber Adjustment Guide
Team Tech Tips – Build The Perfect Turnbuckle Linkages
Team Tech Tips – Lightweight Diff Conversion
Team Tech Tips – DEX210v2 Ride Height
Team Tech Tips – Diff Change – 210 Range
DEX410 Rear Cone Washer Mod – Team Tech Tip
Team Durango Big Bore Shock Build Guide
INSTALLING THE TEAM DURANGO DIMEC CHASSIS ON THE DEX210
Team Durango ‘Race Ready RTR’ Team Tech Tip videos online
‘210 Gear Diff Build
DEX410v3 – RR Anti-Squat settings
DESC410R – Outer Hinge Pin Location
TD330303 – ‘408 Toe-in and kick-up inserts
DESC410R TD320141 Rear Bumper Install
DEX210 Motor Configuration Guide
Turnbuckle Build Guide
DEX210 Ball Differential Build Guide – Part 1
DEX210 – 25° CASTER MOD
DEX210 – INSERT SETUP GUIDE
410 Diff Seal mod
DESC410R 2mm Anti-Roll Bar set screw mod
1/10th scale BIG BORE spring charts
DNX408 Ackermann link mod
+2mm Rear Roll Centre – DNX408
DNX408 Receiver Fitment
DNX408 Shock Build Guide
DNX408 Brake Piston Alignment
DNX408 Drive Shaft Boot Install
DNX408 Gearbox Input ‘Snapring’ install procedure
DESC410R +1 Degree rear hubs
DESC410R Centre Diff Option
DESC410R – Slipper Setting
DESC410R/DEX410 Gearbox Pro-Build.
DNX408 Brake Shimming
DNX408 Setup from Reno Savoya
Anti-Roll Bar Installation
Shock build guide
25mm Lipo in DEX410
Setting up your Servo Saver
Starting Set-up for DEX410 (Outdoors)
How to Save / Send in your set-ups using the Team Durango Editable Set-up Sheet
Bullet-Proofing your CVD’s
Building the Perfect Diff
Rear inner hinge pin spacer (TD709005)
Your local Team Durango distributor
COUNTRY:
T: 217-398-3630
F: 217-398-1104
E: gpinfo@gpmd.com
W: www.gpmd.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
1608 Interstate Drive
Champaign,
IL 61822, USA
USA